家用洗涤对莨纱绸织物性能的影响

Effect of home laundering on the properties of gambiered Guangdong silk fabrics

莨纱绸是利用全天然的原料在自然条件下加工而成,是中国独有的经典丝绸产品。文章研究了家用洗涤对莨纱绸织物性能的影响,以期对莨纱绸织物的服用性能有更深的了解。在洗涤过程中莨纱绸表面的黑胶层对织物的损伤具有保护作用。同等条件下莨纱绸洗后的强力损伤仅为普通丝绸的一半,具有极优异的耐洗涤性能。随着洗涤的进行,莨纱绸正面的黑胶层会逐渐剥落,织物反面的纤维逐渐起绒和原纤化,这有助于莨纱绸与皮肤触感的改善。反复洗涤后,莨纱绸的悬垂性明显提高,克罗值有所下降,紫外线防护性能提高,疏水性能没有明显改变。结果表明,家用洗涤可以改善莨纱绸的手感和服用性能,使其具有越洗越柔软和越洗越凉爽的织物特性。

Gambiered Guangdong silk(known as Xiangyun silk) is a combination of Liang Sha and Liang Chou(black gum silk).The face side of the fabric has a dark black luster and the back is brown,with smooth texture,cool wearing,easy washing and fast drying,and other characteristics.Gambiered Guangdong silk is completely made by hand using the pigment extract of the root of Dioscorea cirrhosa,natural river mud in Guangdong regions,and natural sunlight.It is produced without any industrial raw materials or preparations.In recent years,research has shown that it has inherent antibacterial and antioxidant properties,excellent UV blocking ability,natural flame retardancy,waterproof and breathable properties,making it a fantastic textile for wearing.Despite the defects of excessive heavy metals such as chromium and lead,as well as monotonous colors,gambiered Guangdong silk is still loved by consumers for its unique style and comfortable wearing.This paper aims to compare the changes in structure and properties of gambiered Guangdong silk with common silk fabrics under repeated home washing conditions,investigate the unique properties of gambiered Guangdong silk fabrics,and provide guidance for the commercial development and home washing cares for gambiered Guangdong silk products.The same specification of plain-woven fabrics were used to prepare gambiered Guangdong silk and traditional silk fabrics,and then they were washed both according to the standard washing procedure,with addition of standard test fabrics AATCC Dummy Type I according to the standard requirements.After washing,the surface morphology of the sample was observed by using a scanning electron microscope.General standard testing methods,such as GB/T 3820—1997 Determination of Thickness of Textiles and Textile Products,GB/T 3923.1—2013 Textiles-Tensile Properties of Fabrics-Part 1:Determination of Maximum Force and Elongation at Maximum Force Using the Strip Method,GB/T 23329—2009 Textiles-Determination of Drapability of Fabrics and GB/T 5453—1997 Textiles-Determination of the Permeability of Fabrics to Air were used to examine the performance of washed silk fabrics in comparison to the common silk fabrics.The results show that the black glue layer on the surface of gambiered Guangdong silk has a protective effect on the fabric damage during home laundering.The tensile strength damage rate of the fabric during home laundering is only about half of that of traditional silk,so gambiered Guangdong silk has excellent home laundering resistance.With the laundering proceeding,the black glue layer of gambiered Guangdong silk surface will gradually loosen and peel off,and the fiber on the back of the fabric will gradually pile up,which will of course improve the touch between the fabric and the skin.Home laundering can significantly improve the drapability of gambiered Guangdong silk,reduce the CLO value and improve the UV protection performance,while have no significant change in the hydrophobic property.The experimental data show that home laundering can improve the handle and wearability of the fabric,and indeed the fabrics become softer and cooler after laundering.