北京大学藏秦简《制衣》“襲”字考

Study on the Character"Xi"in Making Clothes on the Qin Bamboo Slips Housed at Peking University

北京大学藏秦代简牍《制衣》记载了秦代“襲”衣的尺寸和制法,其“襲”字的含义在古代服饰与“三礼”研究中具备特殊性,厘清“襲”字释义并对“襲”的使用价值作出判断具备必要性。梳理历代典籍文献及学者对“襲”的注释训解,并与同时期汉墓遣策记载相比较,得出以下结论:秦汉时期,“襲”在服饰名称、穿戴动作及礼仪方面有规范的用法;《制衣》中“襲”为无下裙拼接的短款上衣,结合遣策、文献典籍记载,证明其为真实存在的;“襲”衣的形制、用途、使用人群在秦代、西汉初期至西汉中晚期经历了快速变化;“襲”字在“裼襲礼”中的使用有吉丧之分,结合遣策推测,在丧礼中“襲”衣为地方官府所赠裞衣,用以抚恤已故之人。

The text entitled Making Clothes on the Qin bamboo slips housed at Peking University,records the sizes and cutting techniques for making"xi"clothes in the Qin Dynasty.The character"xi"carries special significance in the study of ancient costumes and the"three rites".Therefore,it is necessary to clarify the meaning of the character and assess the value of its usage.This paper sorted out ancient literature and scholars annotations and interpretations of"xi"and compared them with the features recorded in tomb inventories of Han Dynasty in the same period.The following conclusions can be drawn:the character"xi"has a relatively standardized connotation and usage for clothes,wearing-related actions,and rituals in the Qin and Han Dynasties.In the context of Making Clothes,"xi"refers to a short top without a lower skirt,which is proved by real objects found in the tomb inventories and mentioned in ancient literature.As a noun for clothing,the form,usage and users of"xi"underwent rapid changes from the Qin Dynasty and the early stages of the Western Han Dynasty to the middle and late stages of the Western Han Dynasty."Xi"was used both in sacrificial rites and obsequies.According to the tomb inventories,"xi"clothes recorded in the tomb inventories may refer to pensions distributed by local officials.