中国古代的服制与服色——以职官“四等之服”为例

The clothing system and color in ancient China:Taking the fourth-class uniform of officials for example

服色由于其特殊属性而与服制的制定有密切的关系。以职官的“四等之服”为例,通过梳理各类官修史书中的相关记载,结合中国传统色彩观,探讨服色在冠服制度中的表达、变化及其作用。研究表明:职官祭服和朝服在服色表达上更多反映了传统“五行-五色”的色彩观念;祭服自唐代改用青色上衣,朝服经历五色到绛色的变化,常服四等分色后为公服所借鉴;隋唐之前服色用以区分职事的作用更加凸显,品位分等则通过色相和明度区分。

Costume color is closely related to the clothing system because of its special properties.The officials′“Fourth-class uniform”was taken as an example in this paper,various official history documents in the relevant records was sorted out,and the traditional Chinese color concept was combined to discuss the expression,change and function of color elements in the clothing system.The research shows that the official sacrificial dress and the court dress reflect the traditional concept of wuxing wuse(five elements correspond to five colors)in the expression of the color.The sacrificial dress changed from the Tang dynasty to the dark blue coat,and the court dress changed from five colors to crimson.Before the Sui and Tang dynasties,the function of dress color to distinguish official positions was more prominent,and the grade was distinguished by the hue and lightness.