局部编织技术的编织原理与应用

Principle and application of partial knitting technology

为了对局部编织的创新设计提供理论与技术支持,基于SDS-ONE APEX3岛精服装设计系统以纬平针为地组织设计局部编织花样色码,主要从编织与休止针数变化的角度介绍局部编织技术的编织原理,提出不加不减局部编织、减针局部编织与加针局部编织的工艺设计方法,并在电脑横机上编织出织片小样,进一步阐述局部编织技术在二维平面的嵌花色块拼接、镂空肌理的孔眼效应、三维立体的凹凸造型以及结构轮廓成形编织方面的应用。通过对比分析花样色码与织片小样,指出局编加减针规则与先后顺序、吊目方式、色纱组合等因素对局编织片外观的影响,对局部编织技术在针织创意花型开发与成形编织方面的应用具有指导意义。

In order to provide the theoretical and technical support for the partial knitting technology,some pattern color codes were designed base on SHIMA SEIKI apparel design system SDS-ONE APEX3,mainly from the angle on jersey pattern and the change of knitting and resting needles,the principle of partial knitting was introduced.According to the changes in quantity of needles,the partial knitting can be classified into three categories:no adding or subtracting needles,subtracting needles and adding needles partial knitting.Furthermore,some fabric panels of partial knitting were knitted by computer flat knitting machine.The process design and application of partial knitting in intarsia pattern,hollowing texture,3D concave-convex structure and fully formed sweater were discussed and analyzed.The influence factors on fabric appearance were described,such as the rules and orders of adding and subtracting needles,the methods of tuck stitch,the combination of yarns in different colors and so on,which are meaningful to the development of knitting creative stitches and forming methods for partial knitting technology.