论近代漂染业的层级式发展——以湖南地方志的纂修及其运用为中心

On the Multi-layer Development of Bleach and Dyeing Industry in Modern Period-Centered Around the Compilation and Application of Hunan Local Records

随着学术的繁荣发展和地方史研究重要性的凸显,地方史研究中不可缺少的地方志纂修及其运用均应当更加谨慎。笔者根据对比当今地方志编委会撰写的《湘潭市工业志》和民国时期编纂的《湖南实业志》,发现湖南染坊并非最早始于湘潭,而是始于乾隆年间的长沙,之后湖南各地漂染业得以较快发展。同时,在对比今人汇编《中国地方志经济资料汇编》收录1948年版的《醴陵县志》及其原版等地方志资料可知,收录的文献为“近始有醴商运往各埠销售”,而原版资料则为“追民国初年乃有醴商自行漂染,运往各埠销售”。此外,综合其他地方志等相关资料可知,20世纪在全国各地实业救国和“函须兼营漂染,始足以言抵制外货”的国货运动等合力推动下,湖南第一纺织厂等漂染业在技艺、新型设备等方面均得到一定程度发展。这种发展呈现出错综复杂的层级式表现,不仅有近代专业化漂染经营者及其基础上规模扩大等浅层次的技艺变化,且有近代化新型机器设备的更新和近代股份制经营的推行,甚至还展现出传统蓝靛植物染与近代化工染并存运行的发展特征。

Along with prosperous development of academic studies and highlight of the importance of local history research,local records compilation and application which is indispensable to local history research should be more cautious.Through comparison of Xiangtan City Industry Records compiled by contemporary local records compilation board,and Hunan Industry Records compiled during the Republican Period,the author discovered that Hunan dyeing workshops did not start in Xiangtan in the beginning,but started in Changsha during the Reign of Qianlong,which led to more rapid development of the bleach and dyeing industry in various places of Hunan.Meanwhile,through comparison of local records references such as the 1948 edition of Liling County Records included in China Local Records Economy References Collection by contemporary compilers and its original edition,we learned that the included texts were"recently Liling merchants started to transport to other places for sale",while the original texts were"in the early years of the Republican Period,Liling merchants started to bleach and dye on their own,and transported to other places for sale".Moreover,combining related references such as other local records,we learned that at the push of joint forces such as movement of saving the country through industry in various places around the country in the 2o"century,and the national merchandise movement in which"bleach and dyeing need to be urgently developed,so that the boycott of foreign merchandise can be said",the bleach and dyeing industry represented by The First Textile Factory of Hunan was developed to a certain extent in terms of techniques and new equipment.This development presented a complex multi-layer pattern,in which there were not only changes of techniques in the shallow layer by the modern period professional bleach and dyeing operators and the expansion of scale on this basis,but also innovations of modern period new machinery and equipment and the undertaking of modern period shareholding operations,and even demonstrated the development features of coexistence and operations of both traditional indigo indicum plant dyeing and modern chemical industrial dyeing.