疾病高发区饮食行为的社会文化机制研究——以广东省消化道肿瘤为例

The social and cultural mechanism of dietary behaviors in high disease occurrence region-A case study of the digestive tract cancers in Guangdong Province

以广东省消化道肿瘤高发区——潮汕地区为例,援引路径依赖与场域-惯习理论,应用定量和定性混合研究的方法,从社会文化机制的视角,通过对潮汕人工夫茶与腌制食品饮食习惯的分析,解释为何非健康的地方性饮食行为仍然具有强大的文化惯性。研究认为:潮汕人对工夫茶香味的追求、传统特殊茶艺文化的日常化以及功夫茶所附加的现代社交属性等因素,不断锁定与强化了以热饮为特征的工夫茶品饮方式;民间食用杂咸的传统习俗、快节奏现代生活下对快捷饮食的需求以及本地人对海鲜食材原始风味的追求,是腌制食品在潮汕地区持续风行的直接因素。在潮汕饮食场域中,惯习是一种社会化的主观性,具有强大的无意识、结构化力量。这种社会力量型塑了集体性饮食行为的路径,让社会行动者自觉进入一个自然的、充满意义的生活空间。既往医学或健康地理观点大多聚焦于地理环境、疾病、饮食习惯三者之间的联系,本研究所揭示的饮食行为路径依赖中的社会文化机制,对这种联系的理解具有较好的拓展意义,也有助于为疾病预防提供新的思路和建议。

Drawing insights from the theories of path dependence and field-habitus,and taking the Chaoshan region,a high-incidence area of digestive tract cancers in Guangdong Province,as a case,this study attempts to understand why unhealthy local dietary behaviors have strong cultural inertia even in an era of scientific advancement.From the perspective of social and cultural mechanisms and using a mixed research method biding quantitative and qualitative approaches,the dietary traditions of Kong Fu tea and pickled food prevailing in the Chaoshan region,two dietary habits that are proven to be unhealthy and increase the occurrence risk of digestive tract cancers,are analyzed.Our study suggests(1)the pursuit of the aroma of Kong Fu tea by Chaoshan people,the traditional tea culture melt in daily life,and the social functions attached to Kong Fu tea have kept locking in and reinforcing the tasting manner of Kong Fu tea characterized by a hot drink with a high temperature;and(2)the traditional catering custom of raw pickled food,the need for fast and convenient food in a fast-paced modern society,and the pursuit of the seafood’s original and delicate flavor by local people have sustained the popularity of pickled food in the Chaoshan region.(3)In the dietary field of Chaoshan region,habitus is a socialized subjectivity with strong,unconscious,and structured power.It forms a social force shaping collective dietary behaviors,leading the social actors to slip into a natural and meaningful living space on their own.Existing studies of medical science and health geography tend to focus on the connections and links of physical environment,diseases,and dietary behaviors.This study,by revealing the social and cultural mechanisms underlying the path-dependent attributes of dietary habits,has contributed new insights to better understand these connections and links and provided new ways of thinking in the prevention of chronic diseases.