基于人5α还原酶活性试验对化妆品控油原料的筛选

Based on 5AR Activity Test Screening Oil Control Raw Materials for Cosmetics

本文通过测试样品对人5α还原酶活性的抑制率来评估筛选化妆品原料的控油作用,在1%的测试浓度下,柠檬巴豪提取物、柳兰提取物、红车轴草提取物、苦参提取物和富锌酵母都对5α还原酶有一定的抑制作用,抑制率在22.29%~55.28%,其中富锌酵母效果最好,抑制率为55.28%。在5%样品浓度条件下,茶树纯露、马鞭草迷迭香纯露、薰衣草提取物、迷迭香提取物和金缕梅提取物对5α还原酶的抑制率在48.24%~68.34%,其中金缕梅提取物和薰衣草提取物效果相对较好,抑制率分别为68.34%和60.00%。在0.5%浓度测试下,壬二酸和一水柠檬酸效果非常好,对5α还原酶的抑制率达到90%以上,分别为95.29%和92.36%。植物复合单宁酸、乳糖酸和葡萄糖酸内酯对5α还原酶的抑制相对弱一些,抑制率分别为51.38%、65.33%和44.27%。

In this paper,the inhibition rate of 5AR activity was used to evaluate the oil control effect of cosmetic raw materials.At a test concentration of 1%,Backhousia Citriodora extract,Epilobium Angustifolium extract,Trifolium Pratense extract,Sophora Flavescens extract,and zinc-enriched yeast all had effects on 5AR,with an inhibition rate of 22.29%~55.28%,among which zinc-enriched yeast has the best effect,with an inhibition rate of 55.28%.Under the condition of 5%sample concentration,Melaleuca Alternifolia hydrosol,Rosmarinus Officinalis hydrosol,Lavandula Angustifolia extract,Rosmarinus Officinalis extract,and Hamamelis Virginiana extract had effects on 5AR with inhibition rate ranged from 48.24%to 68.34%,with Hamamelis Virginiana extract and Lavandula Angustifolia extract having relatively better effects,with inhibition rates of 68.34%and 60.00%,respectively.Under the 0.5%concentration test,azelaic acid and citric acid monohydrate showed very good effects on 5AR inhibition rate reached over 90%,95.29%and 92.36%,respectively.Plant compound tannic acid,lactobionic acid and gluconolactone have a significant effect on 5AR is relatively weak,with inhibition rates of 51.38%,65.33%,and 44.27%,respectively.