摘要
为了开发色织大提花喷气涡流纺细号高混比汉麻纱及其面料,详细分析以渗透剂改善纤维回潮率,以氧化剂降低木质素含量,提升汉麻纤维可纺性及舒适性的原理及方法;以多组分混纺、使用特殊油剂,提升涡流纺纱线柔软度以及纱线强力的具体工艺;在纱线表面被覆柔软剂增加经纱柔韧性,在开口区给湿增加经向股线韧性来提升汉麻混纺纱可织性的方法。通过测试汉麻混纺纱的成纱质量和面料质量,表明:选取15%平平加O渗透剂和0.05 L/kg~0.50 L/kg的臭氧用量对汉麻纤维进行养生处理,使用白油作为润滑剂、二甲基硅油作为防粘剂,纺制的汉麻30/粘胶30/棉40 MVS 14.7 tex混纺纱可批量生产且质量稳定;采用MVS 14.7 tex混纺纱合股、在织机开口区给湿结合经纱柔软剂被覆处理技术后,该汉麻混纺纱面料织造效率高、抗菌性优良;今后应进一步加大细号高混比汉麻混纺纱工艺研究,完善织口加湿技术。
In order to develop yarn-dyed large jacquard air-jet vortex spinning fine number high mixing ratio hemp yarn and its fabric,the principle and method of improving the fiber moisture by penetrating agent and reducing the lignin content by oxidizing agent to improve the spinnability and comfort of hemp fiber are analyzed in detail.The specific process of improving the softness and strength of air-jet vortex spinning yarn by multi-component blending and using special oil agent are studied.The methods of increasing the warp flexibility by coating the surface of the yarn with softener and increasing the warp strand toughness by wetting the open area to improve the weaving ability of the hemp blended yarn are analyzed.By testing the yarn quality and fabric quality of hemp blended yarn,it is shown that the hemp fibers are health treated with 15%peregal O penetrating agent and 0.05 L/kg~0.50 L/kg ozone consumption,the hemp 30/viscose 30/cotton 40 MVS 14.7 tex blended yarn could be mass produced with stable quality by using white oil as lubricant and dimethyl silicone oil as anti-sticking agent.After using MVS 14.7 tex blended yarn plied,combining with wetting the opening area of loom and warp softener coating treatment technology,the fabric of hemp blended yarn has high weaving efficiency and good antibacterial property.In the future,we should further strengthen the research of spinning process of fine number high mixing ratio hemp yarn,and improve the humidification technology of fell.
作者
孙仁斌
韩栋
仓亚萍
严以登
SUN Renbin;HAN Dong;CANG Yaping;YAN Yideng(Jiangsu Yueda Textile(Group)Co.,Ltd.;Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Co.,Ltd.:Yancheng 224000,China)
出处
《纺织器材》
2024年第2期14-18,共5页
Textile Accessories
关键词
喷气涡流纺
汉麻纤维
混纺
渗透剂
氧化剂
MVS
14.7
tex
柔软剂被覆
抗菌性
air-jet vortex spinning
hemp fiber
blending
penetrating agent
oxidizing agent
MVS 14.7 tex
softener coating
antibacterial property