“吃出来的”袁家村:食物遗产化的形成与影响

A Food Driven Village:The Formation and Influence of Food Heritagization

在旅游六要素中,“吃”是影响旅游地发展的关键因素,但“吃”究竟如何系统地影响旅游地的发展,其内部作用机制是什么并不清楚。本研究以国内知名乡村旅游地陕西袁家村为案例,采用结构与半结构式访谈法,对袁家村食物遗产化的形成过程、机制及其对乡村经济重构的影响进行了全过程调查。研究发现:袁家村通过选取“道地”食材、采用传统烹饪方式,制作并还原了食物的“老味道”,构建出具有传统特征的遗产化食物;村委、政府主管部门、商户及游客等多个行动者共同组建了食物遗产化的行动网络,食物遗产化机制亦由此形成;经过遗产化的袁家村小吃直接与“道地”“品质”“安全”等形象挂钩,形成了具有地理标志性的特色品牌,并带动了多个产业及多种业态的联动发展,村庄经济得以重构。本文对食物遗产化的探究,不仅从理论上丰富了旅游要素中有关“吃”的研究体系,同时对以食物为视角,重新构建城乡之间的联结机制也有积极的现实参考意义。

Among the six elements of tourism,"food"is a key factor influencing the development of tourist destinations,but how"food"systematically affects the development of tourist destinations and its internal mechanism are not clear.This study takes the well-known rural tourism destination of Yuanjiacun in Shaanxi as a case,using structural and semi-structured interview methods,to investigate the whole process of the formation process,mechanism and impact of food heritage on rural economic reconstruction in Yuanjiacun.The research found that:Yuanjiacun selects"authentic"ingredients and adopts traditional cooking methods to create and restore the"old taste"of food,building a traditional characteristic of heritage food;the Village Committee,government departments,merchants and tourists and other actors jointly form a food heritage action network,and the food heritage mechanism is also formed;the food of Yuanjiacun has directly linked with"authentic","quality","safety"and other images after being heritage,forming a characteristic brand with geographical indication,and driving the linkage development of multiple industries and business forms,and the economic restructuring of the village.This article explores the food heritage,which not only theoretically enriches the research system of"food"in tourism elements,but also has positive practical reference significance for reconstructing the connection mechanism between urban and rural areas from the perspective of food.