审美规训下文化表征的偏向——以音乐短片《美丽的伤痛》对白化病人的呈现为例

Biases in Cultural Representation Under the Indoctrination of Aesthetic Standard:A Case Study of Albino’s Image in MV Pretty Hurts

审美标准是社会规训的产物,时尚模特作为审美标准的具体呈现,他们的媒介可见性塑造了社会对其代表群体的刻板印象和普遍期待,是审美规训下的特殊文化表征。近年来,国际时尚界发起一场旨在推广多元审美的“模特化运动”,部分白化病人成为新审美标准的代言人,打破了往昔大众媒介对其负面的刻板印象。音乐短片《美丽的伤痛》作为典型例子,通过片中特邀嘉宾肖恩的角色设置和形象呈现以及与女主角的对比,可以发现白化病模特肖恩在片内、片外受到时尚行业的双重认可,为参照群体发挥示范效应,其背后的根源在于西方优势阶层的文化授权。肖恩的白化外貌高度符合西方主流审美价值观,适应了西方文化霸权中对苍白美的追求和对差异美的利用。因此,时尚产业出于隐性的文化偏见和权力诉求将其塑造为一种符号性商品。这种策略实质上蕴含着对白化外貌的过度强调和价值极化,是对白化病人群的异化,存在破坏其自主性、剥夺其发声权、孕育新文化偏见的风险。

Aesthetic standards are typical products of social discipline,and fashion modelling serves as a concrete presentation of aesthetic standards.Their media visibility shapes societal stereotypes and general expectations of the groups they represent,making them distinctive cultural representations within the framework of aesthetic discipline.In recent years,the international fashion industry has initiated a“modelling campaign”aimed at promoting diverse aesthetics,with some individuals with albinism becoming spokespersons for the new aesthetic standards,breaking away from the negative stereotypes perpetuated by mainstream media in the past.The music video Pretty Hurts serves as a typical example.Through the analysis of the character design and image presentation of the special guest Shaun Ross in the music video,as well as a comparison with the female lead,it is revealed that Shaun,as a model with albinism,receives dual validation from the fashion industry both within and outside the music video,and serves as a reference group exerting a demonstrative effect due to the cultural empowerment granted by the Western dominant class.Shaun’s albino appearance aligns closely with the mainstream Western aesthetic values,catering to the pursuit of paleness and the exploitation of diverse beauty within Western cultural hegemony.Consequently,the fashion industry subtly shapes models with albinism as symbolic commodities driven by implicit cultural biases and power dynamics.This strategy fundamentally emphasizes and polarizes the physical appearance of albinism,resulting in the alienation of individuals with albinism and posing risks of undermining their autonomy,depriving them of the right to voice,and cultivating new cultural biases.