饮食与地方的具身:以委国客的汤为例

Tong(Soup) of Cantonese Migrants in Venezuela: body experience, foodways and rediscovery of place

地方具身于人,而人迁移时的饮食变化是两地相遇互动的显现。对委国客的汤进行观察,不仅能为移民饮食研究补充具身维度的分析,也能为思考饮食、地方与身体的关系提供动态跨域时空的样本。“地方”不仅是一系列地理气候、风土人情、政治经济等特征的集合,也是该地区历史上诸多要素的互动过程。以委国客的身体为媒介,恩平和委内瑞拉两地的饮食习惯及其背后沉淀的地理气候、历史变迁与文化观念持续相遇互动,互动显现在汤的变化中。为安抚身体与合理化饮食选择,委国客把食材挪动到家乡饮食分类体系的另一类别之中,重新与具身经验相关联。

The dynamic interpretation of foodways and related body experience of Cantonese Migrants in Venezuela has contributed to the changes of Tong(Cantonese soup) across boarder.People establish original classification systems for different foods and relate virtues of foods to body experience in their home villages in Enping.As they migrate overseas,the changes of foodways are largely motivated by their changing perception of food and related body experience in Venezuela,yet the home-established classification system remains stable.Tong reflects the fact that the two places are involved in an interaction cross time and space,while migrants play the role as media of the process.To conclude,the definition of“place”can be expanded in a trait-process dimension.