植物发酵活性物在美妆中应用研究进展

Research Progress on the Applications of Active Substances from Fermented Plant Materials in Cosmetics

植物尤其是药用植物蕴涵着极其多样化的活性物质如多糖、多肽、黄酮、多酚、氨基酸等,其储存的含碳物占生物体含碳物的80%,在化妆品中具有广阔应用前景。但天然植物原材料中有效成分相对较低、传统提取不充分,甚至会有一些毒副作用成分,影响了其在化妆品原料中的应用。利用微生物发酵植物原料或提取物可以解决这些问题,可以促进活性物释放、富集或转化生成新的活性物、增强并拓展功效、降低毒副作用。植物发酵活性物具有抗菌、美白、抗氧化、抗炎、促进胶原再生等多重功效,在美妆产品中具有广阔应用前景。

Plants,especially medicinal plants,contain a variety of active substances such as polysaccharides,polypeptides,polyphenols,amino acids,etc.,and the carbonaceous substances stored in plants account for 80%of those in all the organisms,which have a broad application prospect in cosmetics.However,the effective ingredients in natural plant materials are relatively low,and the traditional extraction processes are inefficient and even result in some toxic components with side-effects in the extracts,thereby affecting their applications in cosmetic raw materials.These problems can be solved by microbial fermentation of plant raw materials or their extracts,by which the release of active substances is promoted,these active substances are enriched or transformed into new active substances,their efficacies can be enhanced and expanded,and toxic side effects are reduced.Plant active substances derived from fermentation have multiple functions such as antibacterial,whitening,antioxidative,anti-inflammatory,and collagen regeneration-promoting effects,which lead to broad application prospects in the cosmetics products.