羌族挑花刺绣图案在皮革服装中的应用研究

Research on the Application of Qiang Cross Stitch Embroidery Patterns on Leather Garments

羌族挑花刺绣是羌族最具代表性的刺绣针法,其图案多样而丰富,反映了羌族人民丰富的生活和文化内涵。通过数字化手段提取羌族挑花刺绣图案,引入形状文法理论优化设计过程,实现了羌族挑花刺绣图案的可持续保护与创新;应用激光雕花实验,探究了羌族挑花刺绣图案在不同皮革材料上运用时的适宜参数及最佳呈现效果,结果表明在两种皮革上呈现出最佳激光雕刻效果的工艺参数均为:打标次数2次,雕刻线速800 mm/s,Q频率5 kHz,激光功率5 W;且在植鞣牛皮上呈现效果较羊皮更优。从材料、工艺、制作等方面突破性地实现了羌族挑花刺绣图案文化特征在皮革服装上创造性转化和创新性发展。

Qiang cross stitch embroidery is the most representative embroidery stitch of the Qiang culture,whose patterns are diverse and rich,and reflect the rich life and cultural connotation of the Qiang people.Herein,the Qiang embroidery patterns were extracted by digital software,and the Shape Grammar Theory was used to optimize the design process to realize the sustainable protection and innovation of the Qiang embroidery patterns.The laser engraving technology was then applied to investigate the suitable parameters and the best presentation effect of the Qiang embroidery patterns when used on different leather materials.The best laser engraving conditions on two types of leather were obtained with the following process parameters:number of markings of 2,engraving line speed of 800 mm/s,Q-frequency of 5 kHz,and laser power of 5 W.The results obtained on vegetable tanned cowhide were more favorable than those on sheepskin.In short,this work realizes the creative transformation and innovative development of leather Garments with cultural characteristics of Qiang cross stitch embroidery pattern from the aspects of material,technique,and fabrication.