“德顺源”烧麦文化空间生产:从特色饮食到饮食文化空间

On the Space Production of “Deshunyuan” Shaomai Culture:From Characteristic Food to Food Cultural Space

以国家级非遗美食烧麦为例,基于相关文献分析以及对呼和浩特市多家“德顺源”烧麦馆的实地调研,解析特色饮食带动形成特色饮食文化空间的演变历程,剖析以地方饮食文化传承为基础的特色饮食文化空间生产机制。研究认为:从特色饮食到饮食文化空间的演变遵循了“空间的符号化展示—空间的表征性呈现—空间的想象再现”这一空间生产理论框架;特色饮食文化空间在生产过程中显现出了“从食品消费空间到饮食文化消费空间,再到精神体验消费空间”的演变特征;特色饮食文化空间是当地政府、市场和文化传承三种力量良性互动的结果,他们以整体聚合方式推动了地方特色饮食文化空间生产。

Taking the national intangible cultural heritage Shaomai as the observation object,based on relevant literature analysis and field research on“Deshunyuan”Shaomai restaurants in Hohhot,this paper analyzes the evolution process of characteristic food driving the formation of characteristic food cultural space,and analyzes the spatial production mechanism of characteristic food culture based on the inheritance of local food culture.Research suggests that the evolution from characteristic food to food cultural space follows the theoretical framework of spatial production.The framework begins with the symbolic display of space,followed by the representational presentation of space,and ends with the imaginative reproduction of space.The characteristic food culture space has shown an evolutionary feature in the production process,from food consumption space to food culture consumption space,and then to spiritual experience consumption space.The distinctive food cultural space is the result of the positive interaction between the local government,market,and cultural inheritance,which promotes the production of local characteristic food cultural space in a holistic manner.