基于元曲作品中丝织显花事象的技艺辨析研究

Analysis on Phenomenaof Silk Weaving Pattern Technique and Artistry based on Yuan Qu Works

元曲作品中多见涉及丝织显花技艺事象,系通过戏曲文学艺术形式反映传统手工丝织事物的文化现象,也是纺织史料的一种保存和呈现形态。采用“曲史互证”的方法,对元曲中有代表性的丝织显花技艺事象开展辨析。研究认为,元曲呈现的提花织造事象与现实中的丝织显花工艺及其织品存在一定的对应关系。元曲“妆花”和“妆金”相关事象提示出后世相关丝织品名称的渊源。元曲“织成”和“缂丝”相关事象所反映的工艺特征和用途符合实际。元曲中“改机”相关事象虽与明代记载不同,但是提示出元代民间衣料加工的常见方法。元曲作品中丝织显花技艺相关事象多由剧曲作者根据现实的丝织工艺特征和产品特点赋予意象性的艺术表达,对后世专门术语的形成不无启发作用,又通过元曲在民间的广泛传播获得流传和认同。

The silk weaving pattern technique and artistry involved in Yuan Qu reflects the cultural phenomenon of traditional hand-woven things through literary and artistic forms of Chinese classical opera,which can also be regarded as a type of preservation and presentation ofhistorical material for textiles.By adopting the methodology of"mutual verification between opera and history",the representative events relating to silk weaving pattern technique and artistry based on Yuan Quworks were analyzed.The article believes that there is a certain correspondence between the jacquard weaving phenomenon presented by Yuan Qu and the silk weaving process and its fabrics in reality.The events related to"Zhuang-hua"and"Zhuang-jin"in Yuan Qu suggest the origin of the names of relevantsilk fabrics in later generations.The technological characteristics and usage reflected in the events related to"Zhi-cheng"and"Ke-si"in Yuan Qu are in line with reality.Although the only case pointed to"Gai-ji"in Yuan Quis different from the records of the Ming Dynasty,it suggests the common method of clothing processing among folkin the Yuan Dynasty.Most of the events related to the silk weaving and pattern artistry in Yuan Qu were given by opera authors according to the actual characteristics of silk weaving technique and product,which led to inspiration for the formation of terminology for corresponding silk fabrics in later generations,and to circulation and recognition through the wide spread of Yuan Qu among the folk.