近代津派旗袍的文化耦合及其造型艺术特征研究

Research on the cultural coupling of the recent Tianjin style cheongsam andits characteristics of modeling arts

近代津派旗袍的发展面临断代与流失。文章采用实地调研与文献研究等方法,对津派旗袍的文化价值、审美心理、造型结构与艺术特征等多个维度进行分析与总结,阐述了津派旗袍的文化耦合性及其造型艺术特征研究的必要性。研究表明:近代津派旗袍打破了服饰流行自上而下、自宫廷贵族向平民传播的固有模式,呈现自下而上流行的新范式。其造型艺术特征中的杂糅性和开放性既是古典存续、中西杂糅的时代缩影,更是中国女性个性解放、求新求异的含蓄表达。研究成果以期为后续学者对津派旗袍文化属性的研究与造型艺术的创新设计发展提供一定的理论参考。

The cheongsam is a traditional Chinese dress,once known as the national dress of Chinese women.The cheongsam is a significant representation of Chinese dress aesthetics and a cultural symbol of national spirit.The term“cheongsam”was initially coined in 1919 within the context of China’s inaugural theoretical treatise on embroidery,marking the garment’s formal recognition in the annals of Chinese fashion history.Tianjin,as an open port city,has integrated the strengths of costumes from all over the world while highlighting the characteristics of local costumes,including both Eastern and Western as well as northern and southern cultures.The Tianjin style cheongsam is imbued with a unique city culture,which distinguishes it from other styles.It shares the same style and characteristics as the Beijing style cheongsam,but is considered more fashionable and modern.It can be regarded as an important representative of the northern cheongsam.The development of the recent Tianjin style cheongsam is facing a risk of decline and loss due to insufficient protection.This has a negative impact on the inheritance of the Tianjin style cheongsam.Previous research has focused on analyzing the costume modeling and detailed features of the Tianjin style cheongsam from an aesthetic perspective,using the modern dress of Tianjin as a starting point.Alternatively,some studies have explored the combination of the Tianjin style cheongsam with contemporary design,with the aim of traditional revitalization.However,there has been fewer in-depth analysis of the cultural and artistic features of the Tianjin style cheongsam from a cultural attribute perspective.To address the challenges facing the Tianjin style cheongsam in its current development,including the threat of generational disconnect and cultural dissipation,the article conducted an in-depth exploration of cultural synthesis.It started from the cultural coupling,combined with field visits,case studies and literature collection,analyzed the different ways,roles and characteristics of the performance of the placket,sash,color and other dimensions of the Tianjin style cheongsam,and summarized the different forms of tattoos on the Tianjin style cheongsam.Subsequently,it discussed the coupling of Eastern and Western cultural concepts and aesthetics of the recent Tianjin style cheongsam and the unique artistic characteristics of the Tianjin style cheongsam.Furthermore,it analyzed and summarized the cultural value,aesthetic psychology,modeling structure and artistic features of the Tianjin style cheongsam,and elaborated the necessity of researching the cultural coupling of the Tianjin style cheongsam and its modeling artistic features.It solved the problems of missing information and unfocused design in the process of design innovation and practice of the Tianjin style cheongsam.As a product of the coupling of Eastern and Western design styles,cultural concepts and aesthetic psychology,the cheongsam of the Tianjin style has witnessed the changes in Chinese women’s clothing,grasped the balance between traditional clothing and fashion,broken the inherent pattern of clothing popularity spreading from the top to the bottom and from the court aristocracy to the common people,and created a brand-new pattern of Chinese clothing popularity from the lower to the upper levels of society.The new design style,new dress concept and new aesthetic psychology witnessed the cultural coupling of tradition and modernity,East and West,and rationality and sensibility.It is precisely through the design and coupling that the Tianjin style cheongsam creates a social trend of novelty in styling and emancipation of individuality in expression.The hybridity and openness of its styling features epitomize the era of classical survival and the blending of East and West,and are also the implicit expression of Chinese women’s individuality and liberation,and their quest for newness and differences.Thus,the Tianjin style cheongsam stands as a monument to cultural tenacity and the dynamic interplay between tradition and contemporary expression.The exploration of cultural integration and artistic nuances offers a novel lens to view the preservation and evolution of the Tianjin style cheongsam.This approach not only enriches the discourse on the cultural and artistic dimensions of this traditional Chinese attire,but paves the way for a more pluralistic dissemination of the artistic and cultural values that it embodies.As Chinese culture continues to thrive and evolve,the investigation,design,and innovation of its traditional elements are expected to become increasingly varied and sophisticated.Looking ahead,the outcomes of the research are poised to serve as some theoretical references for future academic inquiries into the cultural essence of the Tianjin style cheongsam and the advancement of innovative design practices within the realm of fashion modeling.Furthermore,the insights gained from this study are anticipated to inspire and guide the seamless integration of traditional dress styles,such as the Tianjin style cheongsam,into the fabric of modern life.This integration will not only preserve the rich cultural heritage of the garment but also ensure its relevance and appeal in contemporary society,thereby bridging the gap between the past and the present.