汉唐时期晕裥织物装饰演变与技艺发展

Evolvement of Pattern Decoration and Technical Development of Halo Pleated Fabrics from Han to Tang Dynasties

晕裥纹样因其独有的色彩变化形式在丝绸之路沿线大量出现,并对中国传统织绣纹样产生了深远的影响。以汉唐时期织物中的晕裥纹样为研究对象,从纺织科学、艺术考古学等视角研究其艺术风格与审美特征的演变规律,并对“晕裥”名称的含义进行考证,进而从历时性的角度梳理织物中晕裥纹样装饰风格流变与技艺发展变化,探析织物晕裥纹样的本土化演绎历程。

Halo pleated pattern appeared in large numbers along the Silk Road because of its unique color changes and had a profound influence on the traditional embroidery pattern in China.By taking the halo pleated patterns in the fabrics produced from Han to Tang Dynasties as the research object,this paper studied the evolution law of their artistic style and aesthetic characteristics from the aspects of textile science and technology,art archaeology,etc.,and investigate the meaning of the name"halo pleated",so as to sorted out the style change and technical development of the halo pleated pattern decoration in fabrics from the diachronic perspective,and explored the localization process of the halo pleated patterns in fabrics.