摘要
为改善视黄醇(Retinol)的皮肤刺激性和稳定性问题,通过Retinol和10-羟基硬脂酸(10-HAS)的组合以及纳米载体技术,制备得到了粒径大小约75 nm的视黄醇组合物纳米载体ProVA,对比研究了纳米载体在胶原蛋白数量方面的提升效果,并对ProVA的稳定性能进行了考察研究。结果表明,ProVA具有优良的耐热稳定性能,在皮肤重复性开放型涂抹试验中未发现皮肤不良反应;其次,ProVA在视黄醇增效方面,通过体外细胞共培养模型论证了ProVA纳米载体较Retinol有明显的增效作用;在离体皮肤实验中,也进一步证明了ProVA对于UVB辐射造成的皮肤Ⅰ和Ⅲ型胶原蛋白流失有较好的回复效果;32位30~65岁有明显皱纹女性在日用添加量为0.2%ProVA的百雀羚帧颜淡纹修护精华霜后,可有效淡化细纹和皱纹,增强皮肤紧致度和弹性。以上表明ProVA为日化产品中理想的抗老原料,应用前景广阔。
In order to reduce the skin irritation induced by retinol and improve its stability in cosmetics application,based on the study of the synergistic effect between the peroxisome proliferator activated receptors(PPARs)and Retinol,as well as nanocarrier technology,a retinol composite nanocarrier ProVA with a particle size of approximately 75 nm was prepared by combining retinol and 10-hydroxystearic acid(10-HSA).The comparative study was conducted to investigate the enhancement effect of nanocarriers in collagen expression,and the stability performance of ProVA.The results indicate that ProVA has excellent heat stability,and no skin adverse reactions are found in the repeated open skin application test.Secondly,the boosting effect of ProVA was demonstrated by in-vitro co-culture assay.In the in vitro skin experiment,it also shows that ProVA has a good recovery effect on the loss of skin typeⅠ,Ⅲcollagen and collagen density caused by UVB radiation.To sum up,ProVA is an ideal anti-aging raw material in daily chemical products and has broad application prospects.
作者
徐冬
席淑云
陈斌
Dominik Imfeld
Leithe Budel
陈临婧
XU Dong;XI Stellla;CHEN Bin;DOMINIK IMFELD;LEITHE BUDEL;CHEN Eve(Shanghai Pechion Biological Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 200000,China;Personal Care&Aroma,DSM-Firmenich Nutritional Products,Basel CH-4000,Switzerland)
出处
《日用化学品科学》
CAS
2024年第5期69-76,共8页
Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
视黄醇
过氧化氢酶体增殖物激活受体
协同增效
纳米载体技术
retinol
the peroxisome proliferator activated receptors
synergistic efficiency enhancement
nanocarrier technology