DPK法对离子导入技术促进护肤用活性成分在皮肤的吸收过程研究

Using the Dermal-pharmacokinetics method to study the absorption process of skin care active ingredients by iontophoresis

化妆品需要足量的有效成分到达并保持在皮肤和浅表组织中发挥相应的功效。因此研究化妆品中有效成分在皮肤的吸收过程,对化妆品的研发具有重要的意义。对于物理促渗透技术促渗透效果例如离子导入技术的评价,采用Franz扩散池法、平行人工膜透性试验(PAMPA)法等均很难实现。皮肤药代动力学(DPK)评价试验药物与参比药物的皮肤渗透动力学等效性,也可以用于评价化妆品的渗透动力学的差异。选择30名志愿者在随机标记的区域分别使用4个面膜产品,包括完整电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜、完整电回路的面膜、破坏电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜、破坏电回路的面膜。30 min后,取掉面膜,用纸巾擦拭。使用D100胶带和压力棒撕脱21次。第1次粘贴的胶带丢弃,第2~21次放入离心管中冷冻保存。使用高效液相色谱-质谱联用法(HPLC-MS)进行测定。测试结果表明,带完整电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜活性物在角质层中的浓度最高,破坏电回路的面膜最差,带完整电回路和破坏电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜居中。DPK试验可以用于评价化妆品物理促渗透技术例如离子导入技术的渗透动力学效果。

Cosmetics require sufficient amounts of active ingredients to reach and maintain in the skin and superficial tissues to perform their corresponding functions.Therefore,it is important to study the absorption process of the active ingredients of cosmetics in the skin.It is difficult to evaluate the effect of physically facilitated transdermal technology such as iontophoresis by using Franz diffusion cell method and Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay(PAMPA)method.Dermato-pharmacokinetic(DPK)method can be not only used to evaluate the bioequivalence of bioavailability of the drug,but also can be used to evaluate difference of bioavailability of the active substance in cosmetics.Four mask products were used on the randomly marked areas of thirty volunteers respectively,including:mask 1(complete circuit&transdermal enhancer),mask 2(complete circuit),mask 3(damage circuit&transdermal enhancer)and mask 4(damage circuit).After 30 minutes,removed the mask and wiped the test site with a dry paper towel.Used D100 tape and pressure stick to tear off 21 times.The tape pasted for the 1st time was discarded,and the tape of 2nd to 21st time was frozen in the centrifuge tube.Quantitative tests of every five tapes were performed by a high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer(HPLC-MS).The test results shown that the concentration of active ingredient in the stratum corneum was highest by use the mask with complete circuit&transdermal enhancer,the worst is the mask with damage circuit,and the middle is the masks with complete circuit or damage circuit&transdermal enhancer.DPK test can be used to evaluate the physically facilitated transdermal technology for cosmetics.