化妆品植物原料(Ⅷ)——抗细菌的植物原料研究与开发

Botanical cosmetic ingredients(Ⅷ)Research and development of plant antibacterial

细菌无处不在,也是人体皮肤微生物中最大的种群。传统的化妆品防腐剂副作用相对较大,长期使用容易改变皮肤中细菌种群的平衡而导致各种皮肤问题。作为天然的防腐剂,植物中的抗细菌活性成分能减少甚至消除传统防腐剂的副作用及不良反应。文章介绍了植物提取物抗细菌的作用机制及其主要作用靶点,总结了植物中各类抗细菌活性成分。植物中具有抗细菌的活性成分主要有酚类、萜类、生物碱、黄酮、苯丙素类、醌类和精油。植物中的抗细菌活性成分主要通过抑制肽聚糖合酶活性进一步抑制细菌的细胞壁合成以及破坏细胞膜结构和改变细胞膜通透性,使得细胞内成分渗漏,导致细胞死亡而产生抗菌作用。植物中的酚类和生物碱也可以通过抑制细菌中的蛋白质合成,抑制DNA解旋酶和DNA拓扑异构酶而抑制核酸合成,以及抑制基础代谢和能量代谢而产生抗菌作用。而苯丙素类化合物则通过抑制DNA拓扑异构酶或细胞膜质子泵而产生抗菌作用。一些植物抗菌活性成分也可以通过抑制生物膜的形成而产生抑菌活性。文章通过对植物中各类抗细菌活性成分的阐述,希望能为植物原料更好地应用于相关化妆品提供帮助。

Bacteria are found nearly everywhere on earth,and are the largest population in human skin microbiome.Due to the considerable negative effects of the conventional cosmetic preservatives,their long-term use is likely to disrupt the balance of skin bacterial population,then cause skin disorders or diseases.As natural preservatives,the antibacterial components in plants can reduce or eliminate the negative effects brought by conventional cosmetic preservatives.This paper introduced the mechanisms and the targets of antibacterial plant extracts,and summarized the different kinds of antibacterial components in plants,including phenolics,terpenes,alkaloids,flavones,phenylpropanoids,quinones and essential oils.The antibacterial components cause cell death,mainly by inhibiting the activities of peptidoglycan synthases,which leads to inhibit bacterial cell wall formation,destruct the cell membrane structure or modify cell membrane permeability,resulting in the leakage of intracellular components.The antibacterial effects of phenolics and alkaloids are mainly through inhibiting cell protein synthesis,the nucleic acid synthesis,DNA helicases and DNA topoisomerases,or basal metabolism and energy metabolism.Phenylpropanoids can inhibit bacterial growth by inhibiting DNA topoisomerases or cell membrane proton pumps.Some antibacterial components from plants also can inhibit bacterial biofilm formation.This paper has reviewed different kinds of antibacterial components from plants,with the aim to provide information for a better application of plant extracts in cosmetics.