蒙自彝族尼苏、姆基和壮族土僚女性日常服饰的融合嬗变

The integration and evolution of females’ daily dresses of Nisu and Muji of Yi nationality,and Tuliao of Zhuang nationality in Mengzi

蒙自彝族尼苏、姆基和壮族土僚女性的日常服饰在民族交往、交流和交融中不断变迁,呈现外界难以分辨的同一化趋势。本文以田野调研为基础,结合图像资料、服饰实物、古籍文献等多维印证对三者日常着装的演变脉络和成因进行分析。研究表明:三个族群的日常服饰经历了由相异到趋同的演变过程,在共性的基础上又存在个性化的族群特征,与其地域分布、生产生活方式和风俗习惯的变迁融合等息息相关;当前,蒙自坝区的彝族尼苏女性服饰在传承创新中保存较好,山区的姆基女性服饰则依附于尼苏服饰而变化,坝区壮族的土僚女性服饰鲜有人穿着并呈现明显的“彝化”倾向。

Nisu and Muji of the Yi nationality and Tuliao of the Zhuang nationality are ethnic groups from the Mengzi area of Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture.These three settlements may overlap or become closely connected,showing a distribution state that“the ethnic groups live among each other,while some live in concentrated communities of their own”.Despite the different languages of each ethnic group,people in the three ethnic groups can all use the local dialect of Mengzi for communication and have long had intersections in production and life.Thus,the daily dresses of the three ethnic groups show a unified trend that is difficult to distinguish from the outside world.Therefore,the analysis of the evolution of the three ethnic groups’costumes is conductive to interpreting the phenomenon of costume acculturation and revealing the deep reasons for their cultural blending and symbiosis.Based on field research,this paper provides substantial evidence such as image data,clothing objects and ancient literature,and analyzes the evolution and causes of the daily dresses of the three ethnic groups.As shown by the research,the daily dresses of the three ethnic groups have experienced an evolutionary process from dissimilarity to convergence,as specifically reflected in three aspects.First,the daily dresses of the three ethnic groups in the Qing Dynasty are quite different from the current gradually convergent dresses.Due to the policy of bureaucratization of native officers and the influence of Han culture,their tops gradually evolve into the“Da Jin Yi”style,with lapels leaning towards the right side.The“Zhuiji”(a cone-shaped hair bun atop the head)is replaced by the“Baotou”(a headdress that wraps the head with a headscarf),but the separate style of upper and lower garments persists.Second,due to the geographical proximity of their respective settlements as well as frequent interactions such as intermarriage and economic exchanges in various forms,the customs of the three ethnic groups gradually merge,inducing to a closer resemblance in clothing.However,distinctive elements of each ethnic group are still retained in their clothing.On the one hand,the typical wear for females in the daily dress of the three ethnic groups includes wearing tops,pants,and Baotou,with a focus on apron adorned with distinctive patterns around the chest and abdomen.Nonetheless,there are differences in apron decorations,embroidered shoe styles,and headwear designs among them.On the other hand,paper-cutting embroidery is a common technique for the costume of the three ethnic groups.This decorative craft is most exquisite among the Nisu women,while Muji and Tuliao females have largely lost the paper-cutting skill.Furthermore,the disappearance of the Zhuang language has gradually detached females’clothing from its ethnic system.The blending and mutual influence of cultures inevitably assimilates their clothing,ultimately presenting a distinct“Yi”style.Third,as a new cultural construction phenomenon,the current clothing image results from the interaction,integration,acceptance,and adaptation among the three ethnic groups.It not only maintains the aesthetic characteristics and regional features of each ethnic group in terms of patterns and styles,but also absorbs and draws upon elements of Han clothing culture.Thus,the clothing finally shows the acculturation characteristics of the blending of multiple cultures.This paper takes the integration and evolution of females’daily dresses of the three ethnic groups as the starting point.Based on the field research,clothing data are collected from these groups.Besides,historical literature is combined with oral accounts from cultural inheritors.The study is aimed to clarify the characteristics,similarities,and differences of typical daily dresses since the Qing Dynasty.Additionally,the paper seeks to gain an insight into the reasons behind the three ethnic groups’mutual integration,so as to shed light on exploring cultural identity and cultural blending among different ethnic groups.