同乡饮食经济的形成与窄化——基于韧性分化视角的分析

The Formation and Narrow of Chinese Ethnic Food Economy:Analysis from the Angle of Resilience differentiation

与族裔饮食研究中肯定内部消费市场塑造族裔经济的抵御能力与适应能力的积极视角不同,本文提出了固守内部消费市场的低端发展路径对同乡饮食经济窄化的影响。笔者发现,同乡饮食经济在形成时期,饮食文化随迁与同乡聚集为其积蓄了内部消费市场优势,但在后续的发展过程中,却未能积极向外拓展,仅边缘性吸收外围饮食文化,固守底层的同乡消费市场,这间接固化了同乡餐馆的低端市场地位,导致其自我窄化。同乡饮食经济的窄化受同乡群体分化的韧性影响:视野局限、思维狭隘的同乡聚集者表现出较弱的适应型韧性,阶层流动跨度较小,是同乡餐馆的常客;视野开阔、思维活跃的同乡聚集者则表现出较强的适应型韧性,阶层流动跨度较大,往往选择更高端的饮食消费场所。同乡饮食经济因文化身份差异导致的文化认同效应在减弱,因阶层流动差异导致的阶层分化效应在增强。

Different from the positive perspective on the internal food consumption market in shaping resilience and adaptability of the ethnic economy,this article analyzes how sticking to low-end internal food consumption market has limited Chinese ethic food economy.The migration of food culture and the gathering of fellow villagers accumulated the advantages of internal consumption market for the formation of Chinese ethic food economy.But the owners of hometown restaurants failed to actively expand outward,only absorbed marginally other culture and relied on hometown consumer market.All these indirectly strengthens the low-end market position of hometown restaurants and leads to their self-narrowing.The narrowing of ethnic food economy is affected by hometown group's resilience differentiation.Some short-sighted and narrow-thinking migrants show weak resil-ience and only go through a small mobility span.They are regular customers to the hometown restaurants.While those with broad vision and active mind show strong resilience.They go through a large mobility span.They rarely go back to hometown restaurants to consume,but go to higher-level restaurants.Ethnic food economy's cultural identity effect is weakening,but its class differentiation effect caused by different class mobility is increasing.