秦皇岛海域波浪统计特征模拟分析

Numerical analysis of wave statistical characteristics in Qinhuangdao sea

首先,本文选用ERA5再分析风场作为SWAN模型驱动风场,在原始风场分辨率的基础上,开展二次插值细化,利用7个月实测逐时风场数据对ERA5风场U、V分方向修正,有效弥补了ERA5风场在风暴潮期间中心风速明显偏低的缺陷,提高了ERA5修正风场分方向的准确性。其次,基于SWAN模式,模拟秦皇岛海域近年发生的两次典型风暴浪过程,经参数率定和风场修正后,进一步提高了有效波高、有效波周期与平均波向的模拟精度。基于秦皇岛海域42年(1980-2021年)的波浪数值模拟,统计分析了该海域波浪季节特征,推求不同重现期波浪要素,研究结果可为秦皇岛海域海洋生态修复工程和海岸带防灾减灾提供数据支撑。

First,the ERA5 reanalysis wind field is utilized as the input to drive SWAN model.The interpolation refinement was carried out and wind speeds were corrected using the 7-month measured hourly wind field data.As a result,the deficit of underestimation of central wave wind speed during storm surge was removed and the overall accuracy of ERA 5 was improved.Second,Based on SWAN model,two typical storm surge processes occurred in Qinhuangdao sea area in recent years were simulated.After parameter calibration and wind field correction,the simulation accuracy of significant wave height,significant wave period and average wave direction was improved.The statistics of wave seasonal characteristics in Qinhuangdao sea area was further investigated via conducting simulations using validated SWAN model covering 42 years from 1980 to 2021.The conclusions are of great value for the ecological restoration engineering and coastal disaster prevention and mitigation.