棉/Sorona灯芯绒织物创新设计与性能分析

Innovative design and performance analysis of cotton/Sorona corduroy fabric

为提高纯棉灯芯绒织物的吸湿排汗性和弹力回复性能,采用Sorona纤维与棉纤维混纺制备灯芯绒织物,通过织物仿真软件对混纺灯芯绒进行模拟分析,测试了织物的吸湿导热性、耐摩擦色牢度、弹性回复性以及拉伸性能,在此基础上进行了3D立体服装展示,分析织物在穿着过程中的压力分布。结果表明:织物质地厚实,绒条圆润清晰,手感柔软且富有弹性;织物仿真模拟结果与实际织造结果相一致;织物具有良好的吸湿传递性能,纵向绒毛水分扩散速率高于横向;与纯棉灯芯绒织物相比,棉/Sorona灯芯绒织物断裂强力、断裂伸长率、耐摩擦色牢度与弹性回复率均明显提高;3D立体服装显示织物在穿着时,上衣的压力点较多且较为集中,袖肩以及脖领处的应力值较高,容易产生拉伸变形,通过模拟分析可减少上述部位织物的磨损,延长织物使用寿命。

To improve the moisture-wicking and elastic recovery properties of pure cotton corduroy fabric,the fabric was manufactured by blending Sorona fiber with cotton fiber.The mixed corduroy fabric was simulated and analyzed using fabric simulation software.The moisture absorption and thermal conductivity,color fastness to abrasion,elastic recovery and tensile properties of the fabrics were tested.A 3D garment display was conducted to analyze the pressure distribution of the fabric during wear.The results show the fabric texture is thick,the fabric velvet is round and clear,the fabric handle is soft and elastic.The simulation results of fabric are consistent with the actual weaving results.The fabric has good moisture transmission performance,the longitudinal hair moisture diffusion rate is higher than the transverse rate.Compared with pure cotton corduroy fabric,the breaking strength,elongation at break,color fastness to rubbing and elastic recovery rate of cotton/Sorona corduroy fabric are significantly improved.In the 3D garment display,the fabric experiences more concentrated pressure points on the upper body,with higher stress values at the sleeve shoulder and neckline,which may cause stretching deformation.Through simulation analysis,the friction damage of the above parts of the fabric can be reduced and the service life of the fabric can be prolonged.