苏州吴罗织造技艺的活态传承与创新发展

Living heritage and innovative development of the Suzhou"Wu Leno"weaving technique

为探索中国纺织非遗技艺的创新发展路径,研究传统地域纺织技艺的活态保护和传承策略,以苏州地区的罗织技艺为研究对象,采用实地调研与文献查阅的方法,首先对苏州地区具有代表性的吴罗技艺进行整理,详细爬梳其起源、发展及演变历程,剖析罗织造技艺的工艺流程和织造原理;其次,从罗织造工艺的传承困境出发,分析了现代罗织物设计产品的生存环境欠佳、技艺缺乏创新等问题,并提出了相应的活态传承措施。研究表明:深入挖掘纹样内涵、创新纹样再造设计、拓展应用产品范围、革新数字工艺技术、树立地域营销品牌有助于苏州吴罗织造技艺在现代的保护传承、跨界传播以及创新发展。

In order to explore the innovative development path of China′s textile"intangible cultural heritage"skills,and study the strategies of living protection and inheritance of traditional regional textile skills,The weaving skills in Suzhou was taken as the research object,the methods of field investigation and literature review were adopted,and the representative"Wu Leno"skills in Suzhou was firstly sorted out,and their origin,development and evolution was reviewed in detail.The process flow and weaving principle of Leno weaving technology was analyzed;Secondly,the problems of poor living environment and lack of innovation of modern Leno fabric design products were analyzed,and the corresponding living inheritance measures were put forward.The research shows that in-depth exploration of pattern connotation,innovative pattern redesign,expansion of application product range,innovation of digital technology,and establishment of regional marketing brand are conducive to the protection and inheritance,cross-border dissemination and innovative development of Suzhou"Wu Leno"weaving technology in modern times.