近代文明新装款式考辨及溯源

Style Identification and Style Traceability of Civilized New Clothes

文明新装作为近代女性服饰代表之一,探究其款式的发展、变化有利于丰富近代服饰文化体系。通过文献爬梳发现文明新装的款式具有异议。文章采取三重证据法进行综合分析,研究认为:第一,文明新装可依据款式特点划分为:起源时期(20世纪10年代初)、发展时期(20世纪10年代初至10年代末)及全盛时期(20世纪20年代初至20年代中期)。第二,文明新装的款式是对中国传统上衣下裳服饰形制的延续,属于近代女学生装的类别之一,不受同时期日本女装或日本女学生装的影响。

As one of the representatives of modern women's clothing,exploring the development and change of its style is conducive to enriching the modern clothing cultural system.Through literature combing,the study believes that the new clothing of civilization can be divided into the origin period(early 10s of the 20th century),the development period(early 10s to the late 10s of the 20th century)and the heyday period(early 20s to mid-20s of the 20th century)according to the characteristics of the style.The style of civilized new clothing is a continuation of the traditional Chinese clothing and clothing system,which belongs to one of the categories of modern female student clothing,which is not affected by Japanese women's clothing or Japanese female school clothing of the same period.