唐代文献中“新样”的程式探析

Analysis of the “New Style”on literature in the Tang Dynasty

作为唐代纺织品纹样之一,“新样”多见于唐代正史和唐诗等文献,这些文献提供了许多可研究的信息。文章选择相关正史和唐诗为研究基础,对“新样”的创制时间地点、应用载体和表现技法进行分析,并结合唐代实物总结出其艺术特征,探析其流行原因。研究结果表明:“新样”有可能在7世纪下半叶至8世纪初于益州创制,被广泛用于锦、罗、绫、绢等丝织品上,主要表现技法是织造和刺绣。“新样”的题材以中国特色花鸟为主,花鸟造型生动写实,组织形式灵动自然,在浑厚庄重的大唐气派里,透出了轻快活泼的情调。织绣技艺的发展、社会风气的影响和时尚审美的追求促成了“新样”在唐后期的流行。

As one of the textile patterns in the Tang Dynasty,the new pattern was mostly found in the Tang Dynasty's official history and poetry,providing many researchable information.This article selects relevant official history and Tang poetry as the research foundation,analyzes the creation time and location,application carrier,and expression techniques of the new pattern,and combines with Tang Dynasty's physical objects to summarize its artistic characteristics and explore its popular reasons.The research results show that the new pattern is likely to have been created in the second half of the 7th century and the beginning of the 8th century in Yizhou,and was widely used in silk fabrics such as samite,gauze,twill damask and silk tabby.The main expression techniques were weaving and embroidery.The theme of the new pattern was mainly Chinese-style flowers and birds,which is vivid and realistic.The composition form of the New Style is flexible and natural.In the solemn and dignified atmosphere of the Tang Dynasty,there was a lively and cheerful mood.The development of weaving and embroidery techniques,the influence of social customs,and the pursuit of fashionable aesthetics contributed to the popularity of the new pattern in the late Tang Dynasty.