清代两金川地区嘉绒藏族女性盛装考析

Study on Gyalrong Tibetan Women'S Ethnic Costumes in the Two Jinchuan Regions of Qing Dynasty

两金川地区嘉绒藏族至今保留的80余套清代女性盛装,是研究传统民族服饰嬗变的珍贵物证。以乾隆平定两金川战役为时间点,通过文献查阅、田野访谈等综合调研,对丹巴、小金、金川一带女性盛装样本的形制与装饰艺术特征进行解析,探寻其服饰的形成原因及发展势态。研究发现,其服饰嬗变主要受神山地缘文化和清廷“招安政策”因素的影响,并提出“尊重民族性格,溯正历史成因,接纳杂多现象”的传承创新思路。

Gyalrong Tibetan in the T wo Jinchuan regions has retained more than 80 sets of Qing Dynasty women's costumes,which is a valuable material evidence for studying the evolution of traditional ethnic costumes.T aking Qianlong's pacification of the Two Jinchuan Campaigns as the time point,through comprehensive research such as literature review and field interviews,the shape and decorative art characteristics of female dress samples in Danba,Xiaojin and J inchuan were analyzed,while the causes and develop-ment trend of their dresses were explored.It was found that the evolution of its costumes was mainly due to the influence of geograph-ical culture of the sacred mountains and the Qing government's recruitment policy.The inheritance of innovative ideas of“tracing his-torical causes and accepting miscellaneous phenomena”were put forward.