洗发水表面活性剂对头皮的影响及其内在机制的研究进展

Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms

头皮的屏障功能需要正常的皮脂分泌和平衡的微生态共同维持。表面活性剂作为洗发水的核心成分,在提供清洁作用时,会与角质层(SC)蛋白质和脂质相互作用,并且对头皮微生态产生影响,从而破坏头皮屏障。此外,表面活性剂的使用可能会造成头皮瘙痒、刺痛、发红、炎症等刺激反应。值得注意的是,不同种类的表面活性剂对脂质的去除可能具有选择性。阴离子表面活性剂处理会去除胆固醇、游离脂肪酸和角鲨烯,但不影响神经酰胺和甘油三酯的含量,而阳离子表面活性剂却可以显著减少甘油三酯和神经酰胺的含量。脂质组学与微生物组学策略的结合将有助于进一步研究表面活性剂对头皮脂质和微生物的影响,从而指导不同表面活性剂在不同头皮类型中的使用,为研发具有针对性、低刺激性、高功效性的洗发水提供依据。

The barrier function of the scalp is maintained by normal sebum secretion and balanced microecology.As the core ingredient to provide cleansing efficacy in shampoos,surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids of stratum corneum(SC),and have an impact on the scalp microecology,thereby disrupting the scalp barrier.In addition,the application of surfactants may cause irritation reactions on the scalp,such as itching,stinging,redness,and inflmmation.Specifically,different types of surfactants may be selective for lipid removal.Anionic surfactants can remove cholesterol,free fatty acids,and squalene with no effect on ceramides and triglycerides,whereas cationic surfactants significantly reduce the contents of triglycerides and ceramides.In the future,lipidomics and microbiomics strategies can be combined to further study the effects of surfactants on scalp lipids and microorganisms,thus providing guidance on the selection of appropriate surfactants for different scalp types,and the basis for the development of shampoos with targeted scalp type,low irritation,and high efficacy.