戏曲俊扮妆容考

A Study of Beautiful Makeup in Xiqu

中国戏曲俊扮从古至今的发展与演变历程背后有着相应的审美动因与技术路径。俊扮的功能主要是为了美化角色,进而通过“变形取神”来塑造人物。因此,其早期是通过敷粉、施朱、描黛和贴画面花来进行美化妆扮。随着戏曲的逐渐成熟,又出现了通过“梳水头”、贴片子和面部牵引术的方法来重塑脸型;通过勒头吊眉眼来增强人物精气神;通过戴假髯来塑造生脚人物等技术方式。这些技术方式使得戏曲人物造型在舞台上不仅“打远”,而且美观,并实现了塑造人物的需要,最终形成戏曲舞台俊扮的审美程式。

The development and evolution of Xiqu“Junban”(beautiful makeup)from ancient times to the present have been driven by corresponding aesthetic motivations and technical pathways.The primary function of“Junban”is to embellish characters and,in turn,shape characters by altering appearance to raise the spirit.Initially,makeup was achieved through the application of powder,rouge,eyebrow pencils,and facial decals.As Xiqu matured,methods such as“Shuitou”hairstyling,attaching hairpieces to the temples and cheeks,and facial traction techniques were introduced to reshape facial features.Techniques like“Letou”(using cloth bands to tighten the head),lifting the corners of the eyes and eyebrows were employed to enhance the vitality of characters.The use of false beards helped in portraying male characters.These methods not only make the Xiqu characters,appearances on stage look good from a distance but also aesthetically pleasing,fulfilling the need for character portrayal.Ultimately,these practices gave rise to the aesthetic patterns of“Jun ban”on the Xiqu stage.