作为生活实践的非遗——以当代北京日常饮食变迁为中心

Daily Life Practice as Intangible Cultural Heritage:Focusing on the Contemporary Changes in Daily Food Consumption in Beijing

作为一种生活实践,非遗是日常性的,但也具有差异性和社会化特征。饮食类非遗集中体现了其所具有的日常性特征。北京地区的饮食类非遗以北京民众的日常生活为基础,在时令饮食、节日饮食、人生礼仪饮食和饮食伦理中,体现了北京民众对世界的认知。通过对时令饮食的选择而拥抱更加自主的生活方式,以节日和人生礼仪饮食为媒介进行社会交往,通过饮食伦理来规范人们的行为,已成为当代北京民众向外界表述自身的三大领域。当代北京民众的饮食生活在坚持非遗技艺的生活底色外,还要不断创新和发展。

As a form of life practice,intangible cultural heritage(ICH)is a daily routine,yet it also has distinctiveness and social characteristics.Culinary ICH,in particular,epitomizes the everyday nature inherent in ICH.Culinary ICH in the Beijing region is grounded in the daily lives of its people,refecting the residents understanding of the world through seasonal,festive,ceremonial,and ethical diet practices.Residents in Beijing express their worldviews through three aspects of their diet:choosing seasonal foods leads to a more autonomous lifestyle,using festivals and ceremonies as mediums to facilitate social interactions,and regulating people's behavior by food ethics.The culinary life of contemporary Beijing residents should maintain the foundational elements of ICH while continuously innovating and evolving within the trends of the times.