摘要
为研究棉织物的组织结构对吸湿快干性能的影响,以40英支纯棉纱为原料,纬向平均浮长为单一变量,设计并织造平纹、2/1纬重平、3/1纬重平、4/1纬重平织物;采用滴水扩散法和毛细效应测试表征织物的吸湿性和快干性。结果表明:在其他条件相同的情况下,棉织物的吸湿性从大到小的顺序为3/1纬重平、2/1纬重平、平纹、4/1纬重平,快干性为3/1纬重平、2/1纬重平、4/1纬重平、平纹;随着纬向平均浮长的增大,织物吸湿快干性能先提高后下降。该研究明确了织物结构对吸湿快干性能的影响,可为企业对吸湿快干面料进行结构设计提供参考。
Moisture-absorbing and quick-drying textiles pocess both excellent hygroscopicity and fast conduction and wicking performance,rapidly absorbing and expelling sweat from the body's surface,and keeping the skin dry and comfortable.Existing research on the factors influencing the moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties of cotton fabrics mainly considers porosity,density and tightness,or comparative research on plain weave,twill weave,satin weave,etc.There are few studies on the effect of fabric structure differences on moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance,and the related research has a broad application prospect in the fields of clothing and home textiles.To explore the influence of the average length of floating warp threads on fabric's moisture-absorption and quick-drying properties,the control variable method was used to maintain a consistent average floating line in the warp direction,while the average floating line in the weft direction was increased in turn.Four fabrics of plain weave,2/1 weft filling rib weave,3/1 weft filling rib weave and 4/1 weft filling rib weave were designed and woven.The experimental results show that 4/1 weft filling rib weave fabrics are much thicker than the other three fabrics,which is because the warp yarns within the long floating threads of the weft yarns of the 4/1 weft filling rib weave fabrics are closely arranged,and the inter-yarn forces make the warp yarns easy to be stacked together.In the drop diffusion area test,the diffusion area presents an order of 3/1 weft filling rib weave>2/1 weft filling rib weave>plain weave>4/1 weft filling rib weave.The moisture-absorption performance of the fabric increases first and then decreases with the increase of the average float line of the weft yarn.The reason for the decrease is that the thickness of the fabric increases with the increase of the float line.The moisture diffuses along the warp and weft directions and accumulates along the thickness direction at the same time,and the equivalent diameter of the voids in the 4/1 weft filling rib weave is greatly dispersed,which weakens the wicking performance of the fabric in this direction.Through the wicking height test,it is found that the difference of the warp wicking height of the four fabrics is less than 5%,and the difference of the weft wicking height is more than 20%,that is,the increase of the weft float line mainly affects the weft's core absorption performance,with less impact on the warp's core absorption performance.The fast-drying performance test of the four fabrics shows that 3/1 weft filling rib weave>2/1 weft filling rib weave>4/1 weft filling rib weave>plain weave.With the increase of the average floating line in the weft direction,the fast-drying performance of the fabrics increases first and then decreases.The increasing rate of water evaporation in the weft filling rib weave fabric is due to the fact that the structure of the floating line in the weft direction is loose and there are a large number of voids,which makes the liquid water transfer easier in the fabric.Liquid water evaporates more easily because of the larger wetting area on the fabric surface.Although the average floating length of the 4/1 weft filling rib weave is the longest,the liquid water accumulates in the thickness direction and the spreading area decreases,so that its fast-drying performance does not increase but decrease compared with the 3/1 weft filling rib weave fabric.The moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabric is related to the length of the floating line of the fabric,and it can be improved by increasing the average floating length.However,too long floating line will increase the thickness of the fabric,which will reduce the moisture absorption and quick drying of the fabric.While increasing the floating line to improve the moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabric,it is also necessary to consider controlling the thickness of the fabric.
作者
骆浩
冯浩
吴闻韵洁
LUO Hao;FENG Hao;WU Wenyunjie(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Department of Art,Sanjiang University,Nanjing 210012,China;College of Textile and Fashion,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,China)
出处
《现代纺织技术》
北大核心
2024年第7期80-85,共6页
Advanced Textile Technology
基金
国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20)
北京服装学院博士人才培养项目(HFZ20220162)
江苏高校“青蓝工程”项目。
关键词
组织结构
吸湿快干
织物厚度
浮长线
芯吸
weave structure
moisture-absorption and quick-drying
fabric thickness
float line
wicking