故宫院藏清代坐垫的工艺研究

Investigation on the production technique of cushions of the Qing Dynasty preservedin the Palace Museum

为揭示三件清代(公元1644—1911年)坐垫的材料性质和染色工艺,了解宫廷坐垫制作技艺,文章利用多种科技手段对其不同颜色的纤维和内部填充物进行了科学分析。结果表明,三件垫子的表皮纤维材质是桑蚕丝,宝座垫的内部填充物是棉,方凳垫的内部填充物是灯芯草。染色纤维使用的均为清代常用的植物染料,虽然染料种类不多,但配方多样,有单一植物染色的也有套染染色的。其中,黄色有黄檗染色的也有槐米和黄檗套染的,蓝色是靛蓝染色的,绿色是靛蓝与槐米套染的,红色是黄檗和红花套染的。文章首次对宫廷坐垫的工艺进行了科学分析,研究结果对此类纺织品文物的保护和修复方案的制定具有重要意义。

With the popularity of using chairs in the Song Dynasty,ancient people changed the habit of sitting on the ground to sitting with feet down.Hence,the corresponding home textiles,such as cushions for different functions,tended to be increasingly abundant.The structure of the cushion body is mainly made of cloth or straw mat and filled with soft and elastic materials inside,making the seat more comfortable.The cushions of the Qing Dynasty preserved in the Palace Museum represent the highest level of cushions production technology at that time,and the investigation on the materials and dyes will contribute to revealing the production process of cushions of the Qing Dynasty and providing a scientific basis for the protection and restoration of the textile cultural relics.To reveal the material properties and dyeing techniques of three cushions in the Qing Dynasty(16441911),as well as understand the production techniques of the imperial cushions,the fibers with different colors and internal fillings were analyzed by microscopy,infrared spectroscopy and ultra-performance liquid chromatography combined with mass spectroscopy.The results show that the outer fiber materials of the three cushions are all made of mulberry silk,the inner filling materials of the throne cushions are both cotton,and the inner filling materials of the square stool cushion are rushes.The dyed fibers are dyed by plant dyes commonly used in the Qing Dynasty.Although,in this case,there are not so many kinds of dyes,the dyeing recipes are diverse,with single plant dyeing and over-dyeing methods.Among them,the yellow fibers are dyed by cork tree or over-dyed by cork tree and pagoda buds,the blue fibers are dyed by indigo,the green fibers are over-dyed by indigo and pagoda buds,and the red fibers are over-dyed by cork tree and safflower.The dyes analysis results also reflect some details of over-dyeing techniques in the Qing Dynasty:when dyeing yellow with the combination of cork tree and pagoda buds,the hues will be changed by adjusting the proportion of the two plants;different indigo making processes will influence the hues of the textiles;the combination of cork tree and safflower is the economic dyeing recipe to dye red.In this paper,the production technique of the imperial cushions is analyzed by multiple scientific techniques for the first time,and the results are of great significance for the protection and restoration of these textile cultural relics.