“拼死吃河豚”的饮食史意义

The Venture to Eat Globefish Even at the Price of Life and Its Significance in the Culinary History

中国人食用河豚的庶民“拼死吃河豚”、士人“值得一死”试河豚、市民普及吃河豚历史三阶段性的观点;庶民一直是历史上河豚食用者的主体族群,兼有活命原始义和享受美味伴生义的两重意义。社会精英阶层的染指河豚基本不属于果腹需求,初期时段则主要是心理好奇、情感刺激和个性张扬需求,美味安慰是后期发展,并因之促成了市民普及吃河豚历史发展。对中国人食河豚中毒、防毒、解毒历史记录做了深入分析,指出症结历史局限的社会原因。

The author suggests a 3-stage development of the globefish-eating history of the Chinese people:1)common folk“venturing to eat globefish even at the price of life,”2)the intellectual deeming it“worth trying even at the price of life,”and 3)eating globefish becoming commonplace among all people.In history,the common folk have always been the majority who ventured spontaneously to eat globefish,embodying the two-pointed meanings of primitive survival instinct and pursuit of gastronomic pleasure.Joining in of the elite class has nothing to do with survival,but with curiosity,sentimental stimulation and personality display at the beginning and pleasure to the palate later on.This course helped popularize globefish-eating.The author proceeds to explore the historical records about intoxication,prevention and disintoxication measures involved before pointing out the social causes underlying the historical limitation.