Viloft纤维双层保暖织物的开发

Development of Viloft Fiber Double-Layer Warm Fabric

为了提高织物保暖性,对比Viloft纤维与棉纤维、莱赛尔纤维、莫代尔纤维、竹浆纤维的形态特征、物理指标以及相同工艺参数下的纱线指标,根据纤维和纱线特点设计开发出双层保暖织物,详述Viloft纤维紧密纱在络筒、整经、浆纱和织造工序的工艺与技术难点,分析对比5种相同规格的双层织物性能指标。指出:扁平带状外形和表面连续沟槽结构是Viloft纤维与棉纤维、莱赛尔纤维、莫代尔纤维和竹浆纤维的最大区别;Viloft纤维纯纺纱线整经应注意张力的均匀性,减少意外断头,上浆浆液粘度偏小设计,根据车速选择适当的烘干温度,保证回潮率不低于12%,以减少纱线断头和毛羽产生;通过调整综框高度、经纱张力和后梁高度可以改善Viloft纤维布面纬密不匀的问题;在纱线线密度、织物规格相同时,Viloft纤维织物透气性、透湿性和保暖性能优于其他4种织物。

In order to improve the warmth retention of fabric,the morphological characteristics,physical indexes,and yarn indexes under identical processing parameters of Viloft fiber are compared with those of cotton fiber,Lyocell fiber,modal fiber,and bamboo pulp fiber.Based on the characteristics of the fiber and yarn,a double-layer warm fabric is designed and developed.The technology and technical difficulties in the processes of winding,warping,sizing,and weaving of Viloft fiber compact yarn are elaborated.The performance indexes of five double-layer fabrics with the same specifications are analyzed and compared.It is pointed out that the flat strip-like shape and continuous groove structure on the surface are the most significant differences between Viloft fiber and cotton fiber,Lyocell fiber,modal fiber,and bamboo pulp fiber.When warping Viloft fiber yarn,attention should be paid to the uniformity of tension to reduce unexpected broken ends.The viscosity of the sizing paste should be designed to be slightly lower,and an appropriate drying temperature should be selected based on the sizing speed to ensure a moisture regain of no less than 12%,thereby reducing yarn broken ends and hairiness.By adjusting the height of the heald frame,the warp yarn tension,and height of the warp roller,the uneven weft density of the Viloft fiber fabric surface can be improved.When the yarn linear density and fabric specifications are the same,the Viloft fiber fabric exhibits superior air permeability,moisture permeability,and warmth retention performance compared to the other four fabrics.