从李渔《闲情偶寄·声容部》浅析明代与当代的服饰流行观

A Brief Analysis of Fashion View in Ming Dynasty and Contemporary Times from LI Yu’s xian-qing ouji

在封建社会中,服饰有“分夷狄”“明尊卑”的礼制作用。明中晚期随着社会风气的变化出现了许多新式的服饰,而李渔在《闲情偶寄·声容部》中对明代各类服饰流行现象进行分析。将明代服饰流行的观点与现代服饰流行观点进行对比,以批判性的视角看待李渔的服饰流行观。从服饰流行的阶级文化向上追求性,“单一”与“多元”的服饰流行观,流行观“功用性”与“文化性”的差异,以及服饰流行观中“男性视觉”与“女性视觉”的差异性这四方面进行论述,并探讨服饰流行背后的文化变迁。

In feudal society,clothing served the ritualistic function of distinguishing between the civilized and the bar-barians,as well as establishing social hierarchy.During the Ming Dynasty’s middle and late periods,many new styles of clothing emerged with changes in social norms.Playwright Li Yüanalyzed various clothing trends of the Ming Dynasty in his work“xianqing ouji”.Popular clothing serves as a mirror reflecting the different backgrounds of the society in different eras.Starting from Li Yü’s“xianqing ouji”,this article juxtaposes Ming Dynasty clothing trends with modern ones,taking a critical perspective on Li Yü’s views on clothing trends.This paper discusses four aspects:the upward pursuit of class culture in clothing trends,the contrasting views of“singular”versus“diverse”clothing trends,differences between utilitari-an and cultural aspects of fashion trends,and the disparities between male and female perspectives in clothing trends,ex-ploring the cultural shifts behind clothing trends.