否定性困境的再现——时尚虚拟化进程中的身体危机

The Reappearance of the Negativeness Dilemma:The Threat to Body Existence in Virtual Fashion

身体是时尚文化研究的核心视角之一。以建构历史框架为分析方法,划分“束缚性时尚”“自由化时尚”“虚拟时尚”三个形态阶段,身体呈现出“从否定到肯定”与“从肯定到否定”两个宏观转变过程,并体现在材质基础、身体地位和审美意识三个微观层次。快速发展的虚拟时尚虽然兼具物质和文化方面的积极意义,但它再现并加剧了身体存在的否定性困境,让身体在由顺从规训走向尊重感知后,又退回至主动隐匿。这种困境不仅带来了身体虚无化的危机,更造成了现实感和主体性的消亡。只有确认现实自我的优先性,重申身体感知的重要性,发挥现实身体的能动性,才能化解数字时代中的存在困境。

Body is one of the core perspectives of fashion study.Basing on historical framework,going through three forms of fashion which are“constrained fashion”,“liberalized fashion”and“virtual fashion”,the body in fashion presents two macroscopic transformation stages of“negativeness to positiveness”and“positiveness to negativeness”,and is reflected in three specific levels of material basis,body position and aesthetic consciousness.Despite its positive significance in material and cultural terms,virtual fashion reappears and intensifies the negativeness dilemma of the existence of the body,making the body shift from obediently disciplined to respectful perceiving,and then to active concealment.This dilemma brings with it not only a crisis of the nihility of body existence,but also the extinction of the sense of reality and subjectivity.Only by confirming the priority of the real self,reaffirming the importance of body perception,and giving play to the initiative of the real body can the existential crisis in the digital age be resolved.