化妆品底妆体外测试评价方法建立

Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation

选取7款市售底妆类产品进行实验,从4个维度——遮瑕度、暗沉度、抗迁徙性、抗水抗汗抗皮脂,探讨了底妆体外测试的评估方法。遮瑕度和暗沉度实验部分均使用自动涂膜机将测试的底妆样品涂布均匀,采用分光光度计对样品的遮盖率及底妆的色泽表征值(ΔL,Δa,Δb)进行测定;结果得出样品E1的遮盖率为90.98 cr,遮瑕度最高;样品D2的ΔL值为-2.73变化最大,暗沉度最高;结合消费者上妆测试评分来进一步验证,整体分值结果与体外测试结果一致。利用图像分析软件Image-Pro Plus 6.0分析黑胶带上蹭下的粉体量,通过计算总面积比较出样品的抗迁徙性:样品E1<样品D2<样品E2<样品F<样品B1。结合接触角测量仪,测量出去离子水、人工汗液、人工皮脂在样品表面的接触角大小,样品B1和D2与去离子水和人工汗液的接触角大于90°表现为疏水疏汗;所有样品的接触角都小于90°表现为亲油性,其中样品E1和样品F表现为相对亲油性较低,接触角分别为40.8°和40.0°。采用现有文献测试的抗水抗汗抗皮脂测试方法进行对比,结果大体上相符。结果表明,4种采用仪器科学测量的方法都具有可实行性和依据性,为底妆评估提供了简便且科学的测试方法。

This study aims to establish the methods of evaluating cosmetic foundation in vitro from four dimensions:concealment,dullness,migration resistance as well as the ability of water resistance,sweat resistance and sebum resistance.The automatic film coating machine was used to evenly coat the samples in the first steps.The concealment and dullnesssections were evaluated by MetaVue VS3200 spectrophotometer,which measured the hiding rate of the samples and the color characterization values of the foundation(ΔL,Δa,Δb).The coverage rate of sample E1 is 90.98 cr,which is the highest coverage.TheΔL value of sample D2 has the largest change of-2.73 as well as the highest dullness.Combined with the result of consumer testing for further verification,the overall score results are consistent with in vitro test results.Also,the ability of migration resistance was determined and compared by the image analysis of software Image-Pro Plus 6.0 through the testing of the amount of rubbed powder.Moreover,through the contact angle measuring device,the capabilities of water,sweat,and sebum resistance of the foundation samples could be compared based on the measurement of the contact angles of deionized water,artificial sweat,and artificial sebum on the sample surface.The contact angles of sample B1 and D2 with deionized water and artificial sweat are greater than 90°for removal of lipophilicity.The contact angles of all samples are less than 90°for removal of lipophilicity,among which sample E1 and sample F are relatively lower in removal of lipophilicity,and the contact angles are respectively 40.8°and 40.0°.The results of water resistance,sweat and sebum tested in this study are generally consistent with the test results based on existing literature.The results show that four methodologies of scientific measurement with instruments are feasible and valid,and they help develop the convenience and scientific rigor of in vitro evaluation.