摘要
采用UV-Vis、LC-MS、HPLC等方法,对新七白提取物(Xin Qi Bai,XQB)进行全成分分析;基于人黑色素细胞,检测XQB作用前后黑色素生成与转运等相关基因(TYR、SLC3A2、Rab27a、Myo5a、MLPH、GPR143)的表达情况;基于3D黑色素皮肤模型,检测XQB作用前后皮肤亮度(L*值)、皮肤黄度(b*值)及黑色素含量等。发现XQB中含有多种美白成分,如总糖、总黄酮、总皂苷、没食子酸、柠檬酸、烟酰胺等;能够抑制人黑色素细胞中黑色素生成与转运等相关基因的表达;能够提高3D黑色素皮肤模型L*值、降低b*值,降低黑色素含量。初步探索出XQB的美白成分和机理,为XQB在美白产品的配方配伍运用中提供有力支持。
UV-Vis,LC-MS and HPLC methods were used to analyze the total ingredients of Xin Qi Bai(XQB)in this paper.Based on human melanocytes,the expression of melanin-related genes(TYR,SLC3A2,Rab27a,Myo5a,MLPH,GPR143)before and after XQB treatment was detected.Based on 3D melanin skin model,skin brightness(L*value),skin yellowness(b*value)and melanin content were detected before and after XQB treatment.It was found that XQB contains a variety of whitening ingredients,such as total sugar,total flavonoids,total saponins,gallic acid,citric acid,nicotinamide.It can inhibit the expression of genes related to melanin production and transport in human melanocytes.It could increase L*value of 3D melanin skin model,decrease b*value,and reduce melanin content.The whitening ingredients and mechanism of XQB were preliminarily explored,which provided strong support for the compatibility and application of XQB in the formula of whitening products.
作者
贾海东
JIA Haidong(Shanghai Jahwa United Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 200080,China)
出处
《香料香精化妆品》
CAS
2024年第4期199-202,共4页
Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics