马山楚墓N10绵袍的形制结构考释与数字化复原

Research on the Form and Digital Restoration of N10 Robe from the Mashan Chu Tomb No.1

为研究楚国典型服装的形制结构、制衣技术和成因,文章以江陵马山一号楚墓出土的凤鸟浅黄绢面绵袍(N10)为样本,基于发掘报告记载信息,结合同期图像、人俑、当期社会经济因素,分析了其裁剪方式、形制结构、布幅情况和成因,并将数据分析结果导入CLO3D软件,再现了楚人虚拟着装形象。研究发现:1)N10绵袍在形制上遵循“中轴对称”的造物规律,以人体中线为基准,左右对称制成。2)服装结构上有“多样裁片”“多种纱向”“多功能隐领”的设计巧思,是服装审美与服装功能综合考量的结果。3)造型比例上呈现“腰线低至髋部”的纤直审美取向,与宽领相映,塑造长背平肩的仪态之美。4)纹样布局彰显了中国传统服饰中“藏礼于器”的制衣理念,在行礼时将袖身纹样正向示于他人。5)布幅尺度与社会经济制度、实物裁片密切相关。先秦裁制信息记载不详,但裁片排料实验表明,N10适用的布幅有二尺二寸下的秦大尺(60.8cm)和二尺五寸下的周大尺(61.6cm)、秦大尺(69.1cm),也关照了秦统一尺制之前社会流通尺度多样性。

This paper examines the form and structure of typical Chu state costumes,clothing technology,and causes using the robe(N10)found in the No.1 Chu Tomb of Mashan in Jiangling.The study analyzes the cutting method,form and structure,cloth width,and causes of the garment using data from the excavation report,human figurines,and socio-economic factors.The robe(N10)follows the"center-axis symmetry"rule in form,with various cuttings,multiple yarn directions,and multi-functional hidden clothing.The design features a multi-functional collar,highlighting the traditional Chinese clothing concept of"Ritual Hidden in Utensils".The scale of the cloth is closely related to the socio-economic system and physical cut-outs.The N10 robe is suitable for cloth widths of 2 feet 2 inches under the Qin Dachi(60.8 cm)and 2 feet 5 inches under the Zhou Dachi(61.6 cm)and Qin Dachi(69.1 cm),indicating the diversity of social circulation of cloth size before the Qin standardized ruler system.