19世纪末欧洲紧身胸衣对人体塑形的探究

The Exploration of the Body Shape of the European Corset at the End of the 19th Century

为了研究19世纪欧洲古典紧身胸衣,分析紧身胸衣的结构板型和对人体产生压力后皮肤各部位位移的变化,以1890年马术古典紧身胸衣为对象进行复刻研究。结合时代文化背景对该紧身胸衣的款式、结构、色彩进行分析,用CAD软件对该紧身胸衣的原始板型资料进行制板复刻,采用人体试穿主观评价实验的方法,并运用Human Solution非接触式三维人体扫描软件获取3D人体数据,结合逆向工程软件Geomagic Control 2014转化3D扫描数据为可视化图形进行分析,对比穿着紧身胸衣前后的人体形态数据变化,并在人体围度截面曲线对比图中建立坐标,获取各角度部位受压力后的皮肤位移量。该研究从历史文化的角度分析紧身胸衣对人体的束缚能力和塑形效果,填补了紧身胸衣对身体各部位的压力和皮肤位移量的研究空白,对骑马术紧身胸衣版型研究有利于对现代紧身胸衣造型设计的参考,结合模特穿着紧身胸衣后脂肪的移动状态和试穿主观评价分析得出受挤压能力最强的部位是背部两侧和胸下边缘位置。该骑马术紧身胸衣不仅适合女性的日常活动需要,也具有束缚纠正人体的作用,对现代紧身胸衣的设计和创新提供参考意义。

In order to study the 19th century European classical corsets,the structural plate type of corsets and the changes in the dis-placement of different parts of the skin after the pressure on the human body were analyzed,and the classical equestrian corsets in 1890 were studied.Based on the cultural background of the Times,the style,structure and color of the corset were analyzed,the original plate type data of the corset were reproduced by CAD software,the subjective evaluation experiment method of Human body fitting was adopted,and the 3D body data was obtained by Human Solution non-contact 3D body scanning software.Using the reverse engineering software Geomagic Control 2014,the 3D scanning data was transformed into a visual graph for analysis,and the human body shape data changes before and after wearing the corset were compared,and the coordinates were established in the human body circumference cross section curve comparison diagram to obtain the amount of skin displacement under pressure at each Angle.This study analyzed the binding ability and shaping effect of corsets on human body from the perspective of history and culture,and filled the research gap in the pressure and skin displacement of corsets on various parts of the body.The study on the model of riding corsets is conducive to the reference of modern corsets design.Based on the analysis of fat movement after the model wears the corset and the subjective evaluation of the fitting,it is concluded that the two sides of the back and the lower edge of the chest have the strongest compression ability.The equestrian corset is not only suitable for women's daily activities,but also has the role of binding and correcting the human body,and provides a reference for the design and innovation of modern corsets.