先秦袍服“小腰”与现代袖裆的结构设计对比

Comparison of the Structural Design Between the“Xiaoyao”of the Pre Qin Robe and the Modern Sleeve Crotch

袍服作为我国传统服饰中的经典服饰之一,其设计有许多值得学习借鉴之处。运用考古样本分析法,分析马山楚墓N10号袍服“小腰”结构,归纳其腋下袖裆插片结构特点及规律,发现袍服“小腰”在前胸门襟增加了“拥掩”量,这种结构使交领服装穿着舒适、外观整洁。运用类比法针对近代插肩袖腋下局部插片的形成进行结构推演,在保证袖斜符合人体肩斜的同时,其腋下插片还在胸围的基础上增大了人体手臂的圆周运动活动量。结合现代民族服装袖裆进行对比研究,在中国传统服饰以平面裁剪为主要方式的背景下,提出融合三维立体袖裆结构的可能。

As one of the classic traditional costumes in China,the design of the robe has a lot to learn from.The N10“Xiaoyao"structure of pre Qin robes were explained with the method of archaeological sample analysis,while the characteristics and rules of its sleeve crotch insert structure were summarized.It is found that“Xiaoyao”of robes has increased the amount of“Yongyan”for front chest placket,which makes the cross collar garment comfortable to wear and neat in appearance.The formation of the localized underarm inserts of the modern shoulder sleeve was deduced with the analogical method.It is found that while ensuring that the slant of the sleeve conforms to the slant of the human shoulder,the underarm inserts also increase the amount of the human arm's circumferential movement on the basis of the chest circumference.Combined with the comparative study of the sleeve crotch of modern national costumes,the possibility was considerd of integrating three-dimensional sleeve stops in the context of traditional Chinese costumes,which are mainly cut in a flat way.