摘要
纺织品色彩是中国古代二十四节气的重要标志之一,在立春节气中标志性色彩为“青”。通过节气文化和纺织色彩文化挖掘,以及纺织品“青”色界定,为古代色彩体系研究提供更多视角,推动中华传统文化复兴。文章综合古籍梳理迎春官方礼仪和民间礼俗两条发展脉络,探讨了立春古代纺织品色彩范式特征、“青”色释意与现代表达,并提出一种基于现代色彩体系与古代立春青色的对照关系,建立色彩范围。研究发现,纺织品青色是立春迎春礼俗中的标志性色彩,古代“青”在指代纺织品时,以源于天然靛青染成的蓝色为主要色相,在PCCS色彩体系中归类为蓝色、蓝绿色相与饱和度中等、明度中等的色彩特征。
The exploration of textile colors in ancient China’s rich history of twenty-four solar terms holds profound cultural and historical significance.Each solar term marks a unique period in the agricultural cycle and cultural calendar,and textile colors play a pivotal role in reflecting the spirit and essence of these periods.Among all the solar terms,Start of Spring stands out as a symbol of new life and renewal,with the vibrant hue of“cyan”occupying a central position.This study explores the intricate entanglements between festival customs,textile color lore,and the meticulous delineation of the textile hue“cyan”,striving to shed new light on the ancient color system and nurture a profounder admiration for the rich tapestry of traditional Chinese culture.By examining ancient texts and historical records,we embark on a journey to uncover the dual strands of official and folk etiquette and custom that greet the start of spring.These rituals,steeped in centuries of tradition and culture,serve as a window into the ancient textile color paradigm and the interpretation of“cyan”during this auspicious time.The official rites,often elaborate and ceremonial,reflect the importance of the start of spring,while the folk customs provide a more intimate and everyday connection to“cyan”and its significance.The study also delves into the contemporary expression of the cyan hue,examining how this ancient color has been reinterpreted and appropriated in modern society.From art and culture,the color cyan continues to resonate with people,connecting them to their past and cultural heritage.This exploration highlights the enduring relevance of traditional colors in modern contexts and their potential to inspire and inform contemporary creativity.To facilitate a deeper understanding of the ancient cyan hue,we propose a comparative framework rooted in the modern color system.This internationally recognized system,renowned for its precision and scientific rigor,provides a valuable tool for analyzing and comparing the ancient hue with modern equivalents.By examining the range of colors within the system,we gain a clearer picture of how the ancient cyan hue fits into the broader spectrum of blues and blue-greens.This comparative analysis helps us appreciate the nuances and subtleties of the ancient color,as well as its unique position within the color hue.Our research reveals that textile cyan holds profound symbolic significance in the rituals and customs surrounding Start of Spring.In ancient times,when referring to textiles,“cyan”primarily encompassed the rich blue hues derived from natural indigo dyeing.This hue,in the PCCS color system,falls within the spectrum of blue to blue-green,and is characterized by its moderate saturation and brightness.It reflects a harmonious blend of nature and art,embodying the essence of spring and renewal.By studying this ancient hue,we gain a deeper understanding of the role of textiles in ancient Chinese society and their significance in connecting past with present.Textiles were not merely utilitarian objects;they were also cultural carriers that transmitted values,beliefs,and aesthetic preferences.The color cyan became a powerful symbol of renewal,growth,and prosperity,embodying the essence of spring and its promise of new beginnings.In conclusion,this study offers a comprehensive exploration of textile colors in ancient China,with a focus on the symbolic significance of the cyan hue during Start of Spring.By delving into the intricate interplay between festival culture,textile color traditions,and the nuanced definition of“cyan”,we uncover fresh perspectives on the ancient color system and foster a deeper appreciation and understanding of Chinese traditional culture.The study also highlights the enduring relevance of traditional colors in modern contexts and their potential to inspire and inform contemporary creativity.
作者
李璠
温润
LI Fan;WEN Run(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Shanghai International College of Fashion and Innovation,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第9期120-128,共9页
Journal of Silk
基金
上海市哲学社会科学规划课题项目(2020BWY032)
教育部产学合作协同育人项目(220606429135509)。