芍药甘草汤美白保湿乳液的研制

Development of Whitening and Moisturising Lotion with Peony and Liquorice Soup

以传统方剂芍药甘草汤为基础,制备一款乳液并对其美白、保湿功效进行评价;制备赤芍、甘草提取液,采用DPPH自由基清除试验,筛选出两种提取液各自的最佳抗氧化浓度及复配比例;采用单因素实验法优化乳液基质配方,得到复配液最佳添加量;采用络氨酸酶活性抑制实验对乳液的美白功效进行评价;采用CM825皮肤水分测试仪对乳液的保湿功效进行评价;对比护肤乳液(国家标准QB/T 29665—2013)检验指标要求,对乳液成品的感官理化性质进行评价;通过斑贴试验检验乳液的刺激性。结果表明,将甘草和赤芍提取液,以2∶3体积比例复配,制得的甘草赤芍乳液,美白、保湿能力良好,质地均匀,使用感舒适,感官理化性质良好,耐热、耐寒、安全性等指标符合化妆品规范标准。

Based on the traditional formula of Paeonia lactiflora and Glycyrrhiza glabra,an emulsion was prepared and evaluated for its whitening and moisturising efficacy;the extracts of Paeonia lactiflora and Glycyrrhiza glabra were prepared and the optimal antioxidant concentration and the optimal ratio of the two extracts were screened using the DPPH radical scavenging test for each of the two extracts;and the formulation of the emulsion matrix was optimised using a one-way experimental approach to obtain the optimal amount of additive in the compounding solution;The whitening efficacy of the lotion was evaluated using the complexinase activity inhibition test;the moisturising efficacy of the lotion was evaluated using the CM825 skin moisture tester;the organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the finished product were evaluated in comparison with the requirements of the inspection indexes of skin lotions(National Standard QB/T 29665—2013);and the irritation property of the lotion was examined by the patch test.The results showed that the liquorice and peony extracts compounded in the ratio of 2∶3 produced liquorice and peony emulsion with good whitening and moisturising ability,uniform texture,comfortable application,good organoleptic and physicochemical properties,and the heat resistance,cold resistance and safety indexes were in accordance with the standard of cosmetic specifications.