浙闽畲族服饰色彩“变”“异”考释

A Textual Study on the Color Changes and Differences of She Ethnic Clothing in Zhe jiang and Fu jian Provinces

以浙闽两省畲族传统服饰为研究对象,从纵向时间线视角探究两省服饰底色由蓝至黑,装饰色彩由简至繁,服饰用色由同至异的变迁历史;收集上百幅浙闽畲族服饰图像,运用计算机色彩聚类分析算法,从主辅色占比、色相、色彩饱和度、色彩明度这4个角度比较研究浙闽两地畲族服饰用色的同一性与差异性,认为浙闽两省畲族同源共祖,其民族服饰伴随民族迁徙历程在文化自我生长及交往交流交融的过程中中产生了在地化特征,形成了两类具有地域区分度的民族服饰尚色风格,浙江畲族服饰多用冷色搭配少许暖色装饰整体朴素雅致,福建畲族服饰冷暖对比强烈,装饰纹样丰富极具美学价值。

The article takes the traditional clothing of the She ethnic group in Zhejiang and Fujian provinces as the research object,and explores the changing history of their clothing background color from blue to black,decorative color from simple to complex,and clothing color from the same to different from a vertical timeline perspective.Then,hundreds of She ethnic clothing images in Zhejiang and Fujian were collected,and computer color clustering analysis algorithm was used to compare and study the identity and differences in the color usage of She ethnic clothing from four perspectives:the proportion of main and auxiliary colors,hue,color saturation,and color brightness.It is believed that the She ethnic clothing is of the same origin and common ancestor,and their ethnic clothing has produced localized characteristics in the process of ethnic migration and integration,Two representative local ethnic clothing styles with similar appearances have been formed.The clothing of the She ethnic group in Zhejiang is mostly decorated with cold colors and a few warm colors,which are simple and elegant overall.The clothing of the She ethnic group in Fujian has a strong contrast between cold and warm,and the decorative patterns are rich and of great aesthetic value.