岭南古代饮食的概念与形态考察——关于“汤”“羹”“汁”与汤馔

The Investigation on the Concepts and Forms of Ancient Diet in Lingnan Areas——On Soup,Thick Soup,Juice and Soup Dishes

喝汤在岭南现当代饮食中是日常不可少的饮食惯俗,并且演变成为了一个具有地域特色的岭南饮食文化符号。“汤”包含了三个方面的含义:一是普遍意义上的热水;二是广义饮食意义上的茶汤、汤药、米汤、灰汤、上汤等;三是更为细分的肴馔范畴的汤馔,也即今人所喝的汤。在岭南古代地方文献记载中,第一、二种“汤”出现较多,仅有《养生食鉴》中的鲤鱼汤和驴头肉汁较为接近今人所饮用的汤馔。作为一道养生食谱,这两个汤也可以看作是现当代“老火汤”的一个饮食形态和饮食理念的起源。由文献记载中也可以看出,古代“汤”在饮食意义上更倾向于素食范畴,而到了民国时期,这种饮食形态和习惯由于社会遽动产生了变化。

Drinking soup is an indispensable daily dietary habit in modern and contemporary diet in Lingnan,and it has also evolved into a Lingnan food culture symbol with regional characteristics.“Soup”contains three meanings:firstly,it means the hot water in the general sense;secondly,it includes,in broad sense,tea soup,medicine soup,rice soup,ash soup,and meat soup,etc.;thirdly,it is a soup belonging to the subdivided category of dishes,that is,the soup drunk today.In the ancient local documents of Lingnan,the first and the second kinds of“soup”appear more.Only the carp soup and donkey head gravy in Health Diet Reference Book(Yangsheng Shijian)are similar to the soup drunk today.As health care recipes,these two soups can also be regarded as the origin of a dietary form and concept of the contemporary“old fire soup”.According to the literature records,ancient“soup”was more inclined to the vegetarian category in terms of dietary significance,while in the period of the Republic of China,this diet form and habit changed due to social upheaval.