馆藏4件唐代丝织品染料鉴别

Dye identification of four Tang dynasty silk fabrics in the collection

为了深入探究唐代服饰色彩及其背后的社会文化内涵,并为唐代服饰色彩和相关制度的研究提供更为科学的依据。结合古文献梳理了唐代天然染料品类、染色工艺及服饰色彩,并采用高效液相色谱-质谱联用技术,对中国丝绸博物馆馆藏4件丝织品进行了染料鉴别与分析。成功鉴别出了茜草属(Rubia)、黄檗属(Phellodendron spp.)、小檗属(Berberis spp.)、靛青类(indigo)、单宁类(tannin),以及昆虫染料。其中亚美尼亚胭脂虫(Porphyrophora hamelii)在唐代文献资料中未曾记载,但出现在本文唐代的丝织品上,丰富了该时期的染料种类,反映了唐朝时期中国与中亚、西亚之间的经济和文化交流。为深入研究唐代丝织品的色彩特征提供了参考依据。

In order to deeply explore the costume colors of the Tang dynasty and the social cultural connotations behind them,and to provide a more scientific basis for the study of costume colors and related systems of the Tang dynasty.In this paper,the types,dyeing processes and colors of natural dyes in the Tang dynasty were sorted out based on ancient literature,and the dyes of four silk fabrics in the collection of China Silk Museum were identified and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry.The genus madder(Rubia),cork tree(Phellodendron spp),Barberry(Berberis spp),Indigo,Tannin-based and insect dyes were successfully identified.Armenian cochineal(Porphyrophora hamelii)was not recorded in the Tang dynasty literature,but appeared on the silk fabrics of the Tang dynasty,which enriched the types of dyes of the period,reflecting the economic and cultural exchanges between China,Central and West Asia in the Tang dynasty.The results provide a reference for further study of the color characteristics of silk fabrics in the Tang dynasty.