清代龙袍中海水江崖纹的艺术特征及其创新设计

Artistic features and innovative design of sea water and cliff pattern in Qing dynasty dragon robe

为了促进中国传统纹样更好地融入现代服饰发展潮流,激发传统纹样的生命力,以清代龙袍中海水江崖纹样为研究对象,首先简述纹样历史背景和文化意蕴,然后通过研究立水纹、平水纹、祥云纹以及山崖纹在形状、数量和位置关系等变化,分析清代早期、中期和晚期海水江崖纹的造型特征,并概述各时期的色彩组合规律,最后采用提取纹样相关元素及配色归纳和创新等方式,进行海水江崖纹在现代服装上的创新应用设计。结果表明:海水江崖纹以山崖纹和海水纹为主要纹样组合而成,象征统治者对权力的渴望以及一统天下的愿景,其在龙袍中所占面积随着时代的更迭逐渐扩大,色彩的纯度和明度逐渐提高。以设计学思维研究该纹样,将海水江崖纹应用到女装当中,以纹样造型作为服装廓形元素,以传统的蓝白色调作为核心色彩,构建现代女装设计效果,赋予清代海水江崖纹新的活力,以实现更好地传承与发展中国传统纹样的目标。

Sea water and cliff pattern originated in the Ming dynasty,and continued as a stylized decorative style on the Qing dynasty dragon robe.The products with sea water and cliff pattern as the creation theme have attracted wide attention in the modern design market.In order to promote traditional Chinese patterns to better integrate into the development trend of modern clothing and stimulate the vitality of traditional patterns,the seawater cliff patterns in Qing dynasty dragon robes were taken as the research object.The historical background and cultural implications of the patterns were first briefly described in this paper,and then the changes in shape,quantity and location of the patterns of standing water,plain water,auspicious clouds and mountain cliff patterns were studied.The modeling characteristics of sea water and cliff patterns in the early,middle and late Qing dynasty were analyzed,and the color combination rules of each period was summarized.Finally,the extraction of relevant elements of pattern and the induction and innovation of color matching was adopted to carry out the innovative application design of sea water and cliff patterns in modern clothing.The results show that the sea water and cliff pattern is mainly composed of mountain cliff pattern and sea water pattern,which symbolizes the ruler's desire for power and the vision of unifying the world.Its area in the dragon robes gradually expands with the change of times,and the color purity and brightness gradually improve.Through the study of this pattern in design thinking,the sea water and cliff pattern is applied to women′s clothing,with the pattern modeling as the silhouette element of clothing and the traditional blue and white tone as the core color,the design effect of modern women's clothing is constructed,and the sea water and cliff pattern of the Qing dynasty is endowed with new vitality,so as to achieve the goal of better inheritance and development of traditional Chinese patterns.