莨纱绸制备过程中织物结构与风格的变化

Alterations in fabric structure and style during the preparation of gummed Guangdong silk

通过织物结构参数、表面形貌及风格指标等测试分析,探究莨纱绸制备过程中织物结构与风格的变化。结果表明:莨纱绸制备过程中织物经纬密无显著变化,但染色及涂泥整理后织物的平方米质量及厚度逐渐增加,砂洗后无明显变化。染色及涂泥整理后织物形成涂层结构,砂洗后有轻微的纤维损伤、起绒现象。染色及涂泥整理使织物柔软度减小,硬挺度和悬垂系数增大,砂洗后呈相反趋势;莨纱绸制备过程中织物的光滑度无明显差异。染色及涂泥过程中织物的K/S值逐渐增加,砂洗后变化较小,家用洗涤5次后织物的K/S值不降反增,各试样耐家用洗涤沾色牢度为5级,耐干/湿摩擦色牢度约为2级,需进一步改进以获得“经久耐穿”的织物风格。染色5次后织物的UPF值大于40,染色及涂泥过程中无显著变化,砂洗后骤增,具有优异的紫外防护性能。该研究为莨纱绸制备过程中织物结构与风格的变化提供了理论解释。

Gummed Guangdong silk,a green ecological textile,is a national geographical indication product of China.Its popularity among the public can be attributed to its distinctive double-sided heterochromatic structure and outstanding wearing properties.The glossy black front side and dull reddish-brown back side contribute to its unique appeal.This exclusive fabric structure imparts numerous commendable wearing characteristics to gummed Guangdong silk,such as coolness,softness,breathability,waterproofness,electric resistance,anti-friction,wrinkle resistance,antibacterial activity,insect prevention,electric resistance,flame oxidation resistance and environment friendliness.The dyeing and finishing techniques of gummed Guangdong silk involve the formation of fabric structure and style,playing a crucial role in determining its exceptional wearing properties.Consequently,it is imperative to elucidate the alterations in fabric structure and style during the preparation of gummed Guangdong silk.Surprisingly,despite numerous articles on the structure and properties of gummed Guangdong silk,there is a conspicuous absence of explanations or reports regarding the evolution of the structure and style of gummed Guangdong silk.Therefore,in this study,samples were prepared according to the traditional dyeing and finishing techniques of gummed Guangdong silk.The pigment extracted from Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour was utilized to dye the silk fabric repeatedly.When the pigment layer on the fabric reached a certain thickness,the dyed fabric was coated with mud.By testing and characterizing different samples in the process of making Guangdong silk,the changes of fabric structure and style in the preparation of gummed Guangdong silk were studied.Firstly,a comprehensive analysis of structural parameters such as density,square meter mass,and thickness for each sample was conducted throughout the preparation process.The findings reveal that there is negligible alteration in both warp and weft density during the preparation.Notably,the preparation process demonstrates no discernible impact on the fabric’s density structure.However,it is crucial to highlight that both the dyeing and mud-coating processes exert a considerable influence on the weight per square meter and thickness of the fabric.Results indicate a gradual increase in the weight per square meter and thickness during the dyeing and mud-coating finishing,with no significant change observed after finishing by sand washing.An in-depth examination of the fabric’s surface morphology was undertaken to further clarify structural changes.SEM images reveal that the dyeing and mud-coating finishing processes lead to the formation of a tight coating structure on the fabric,providing an explanation for the observed increase in weight per square meter and thickness.Although some damage and fluffing occur on the fabric’s surface after sand washing,it does not result in extensive harm to the fabric coating.This outcome elucidates why the weight per square meter and thickness remain largely unaffected even after sand washing.Secondly,the evolution in the style of gummed Guangdong silk was elucidated by conducting tests and characterizing various samples based on style parameters throughout the preparation process.Results indicate that both dyeing and mud finishing processes lead to a reduction in the softness score,and an increase in the stiffness score and drape index.Conversely,these trends reverse after sand washing.Notably,there is no significant change in the smoothness score of the fabric during the preparation.The findings emphasize that dyeing and mud finishing impart stiffness to the fabric,necessitating further finishing by sand washing to achieve softness and smoothness for a comfortable touch.Subsequently,an analysis of the wearability style of gummed Guangdong silk was conducted by testing color fastness to domestic laundering and color fastness to rubbing.Evidently,the K/S value of the fabric gradually increases during the preparation,and the color fastness to domestic laundering is 5,demonstrating good color fastness.However,the color fastness to dry/wet rubbing is 2 approximately,demonstrating undesirable color fastness.Therefore,further modification is required to achieve excellent color fastness of gummed Guangdong silk.Finally,the UV protective characteristics were subjected to testing and characterization.It was observed that the UPF value increases significantly after dyeing with Dioscorea Cirrhosa pigment for five times,surpassing 40.Furthermore,there is a substantial reduction in UVA and UVB transmittance.Continuous dyeing and mud coating processes do not bring about significant changes in the UPF value,UVA,and UVB transmittance.However,after finishing by sand washing,the UPF value experiences a sharp increase,accompanied by a considerable reduction in UVA and UVB transmittance.These findings underscore the exceptional UV protection style exhibited by gummed Guangdong silk.This study clarifies the alterations of the structure and style in the preparation of gummed Guangdong silk,provides a theoretical basis for the structural and stylistic evolution of gummed Guangdong silk and may pave the path for the standardization of industrial manufacturing.