民国男士礼服形象识别与审美探究

Image recognition and aesthetic exploration of men’s dresses in the Republic of China

民国时期是中国男士礼服西化的起点,同时预示着短衣时尚现代化的开始。文章通过认知模型,研究挖掘民国男士礼服背后所反映的时代社会面貌,进而折射出着装者的生存境遇与人生价值的取向,并从中提炼民国男士着衣形象、形体及审美的识别探索。借由文献研究法、比较分析和交叉研究法等通过男性独有的性别文化视角,对民国时期的礼服变革加以审视。研究发现,民国男士礼服着装在其形象中兼顾文与质的双重属性,在转化中形成独特的中西交融审美,并为现代审美形象的转换提供可读性与体验性。民国时期孕育出了时境所需的审美雏形,由此书写向现代化服饰迈进的重要伏笔。

The Republic of China period was the most intense and typical period in the history of Chinese clothing development,with the westward trend spreading and the east-west blending.From 1912 to 1949,traditional Chinese clothing and modern Western clothing underwent multidimensional influences and integration.This article focuses on studying the changes that occurred in Chinese men’s formal attire during this period,believing that this period was the starting point of westernization of Chinese men’s formal attire,and also foreshadowing the beginning of modernization of short clothing fashion.This article analyzes the appearance and image of men’s formal attire in the Republic of China.The study focuses on the form of men’s formal attire stipulated in the three promulgation laws and regulations of the Republic of China from 1912 to 1936.The research draws on the cognitive psychological model and analyzes the reception,recognition,and translation of the visual image and clothing vocabulary of men’s formal attire in the Republic of China.Using this model for reference,this paper analyzes the construction process of the image and significance of the men’s dress in the Republic of China,especially the changes of aesthetic orientation,thinking awareness,lifestyle and values reflected in this process.At the same time,this article also uses methods such as literature research,comparative analysis,and cross-research to compare the localization of Japanese men’s clothing in the process of Westernization from the perspective of male-specific gender culture,reflecting the differences between the two countries in terms of attitudes towards Western culture,social status,political systems,reform ideas,and many other aspects.It is found that under the general trend of the westward influence of modern China,the three changes in men’s dress code in the Republic of China reflected the internal patterns formed by intellectuals’thinking and concepts in the process of understanding Western civilization and Chinese tradition.Through cognitive models,men’s dress code and masculinity were taken as a sample to reflect the dual attributes of men’s image in the Republic of China,which took into account both culture and quality,and gave birth to a prototype of male aesthetic that met the needs of the social situation at that time.This aesthetic sample not only has the highest ideal of masculinity and masculine image in traditional Chinese culture that gentleness and courteousness make a gentleman,but also takes into account the requirements of Western modernist concepts and industrial society for masculinity and masculine image,providing a style and template for modern Chinese men’s clothing image.